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-> -> -> Search for "䘴"
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Scope: 通雅
Condition : Contains text 「䘴」
Total 2

卷三十六

20
襜褕敞衣也襌衣單直身也袷複夾衣也褶袴戎服也蔽膝鞸也 直裾襌音丹衣也記曰襌為絅通作褧單衣也襜褕音占俞取其襜襜寛裕小爾雅謂之童容方言作●褣詩漸車帷裳疏容葢謂之童容四垂曰襜所謂鼈甲縁邊之裧也衣似之故亦曰●褣●安侯衣襜褕入宮不敬注云若婦人服智以為襜褕大敞無兩腋襞積故曰似婦人服也黃氏因小爾雅注與小顏說●亦謂之襜直以襜褕為蔽膝此特拘衣蔽前謂之襜耳孔文舉以邊文禮為九州被則不足為襜褕則有餘言遮一身也豈蔽膝乎漢書葢寛饒斷其襌衣江充衣紗縠單衣馬援都布單衣陸閎越布單衣方言江淮曰襟闗東西曰襌●今吾鄉謂之褻子即褋音也通曰長衣或曰直身故兩京通稱道袍即漢之通裁也士喪禮浴衣於篋注浴之已浴所衣之衣布為之其制如今通裁方言褒明謂之袍漢謂長衣為褒魏明半褒言半大也郭若虛畫記隋唐謂之馮翼今呼直裰即縫掖也袷音夾夾衣無絮也唐德宗在梁洋尚服袷褚之以綿曰複褚裝衣也南越傳上褚五十衣注綿裝也褶徒頰切黃氏音習袴也唐韻袷也玉藻帛為褶注有表而無著袷一作襲說文襲左袵袍此則又近乎吾鄉之所謂褻矣說文但以袴褶為戎服而不知與褶通之襲別自有義寧非誤乎物原曰宋太祖製海青截褶效南蠻也今吳中呼直身曰海青恐是借其色則截褶亦謂褻也許慎既以袴褶解襲而孫愐又以袷釋褶太淆混矣褶自可訓袷衣因袴褶立名遂有左袵袍之目耳師古曰褶謂重衣之罩在上者其形若袍短身而廣袖一曰左袵之袍也袴脛衣也大者曰倒頓小者曰䘨●皆上聲此引方言也方言止言袴未言袴褶恐師古亦誤郭璞曰倒頓今雹袴也䘨●今●袴也袴之兩股曰襱龍隴二音郭璞曰今俗呼袴踦為襱袴一作絝朱博褒衣大袑音紹袴也方言曰●曰襱左傳褰與襦注褰袴也無●之袴謂之襣今犢鼻褌合襠謂之褌漢外戚傳竆絝注即今之裩襠相如犢鼻注今之衯也姚令威云醫書膝上二寸為犢鼻穴褌長才至此此解未確智按古袴上連衣故戎衣謂之袴褶呂範自請為孫策都督出便釋褠著袴褶師古所解重衣在上正謂今之罩甲半臂而短戎衣也戎衣或從邊塞之制故有曰左袵者若單著袴而不著裙襦則腳口象犢鼻耳開元禮皇太子正至受羣臣賀若服袴褶羣官及宮臣皆袴褶太宗視朝衣白練裙襦常服則有袴褶與平巾幘通用翼善冠其後朔望視朝仍用弁服三朝志云窄袍烏紗帽便坐視事服之開元李適之奏冬至朝參幷六品清官服朱衣以下通服袴褶天寶志五品以上著珂傘貞元十五年歸崇敬以百官朔望朝服袴褶非古禮罷之奏可蔽膝者於衣裳上著以蔽前也詩曰赤芾箋云冕服謂之芾其他謂之鞸一曰韍方言曰褘曰被曰袡襦曰曲領曰曰絜襦皆漢時四方之語近朝服以金織之前後二服曰黼黻以加襟裾其遺制也古人則莊服常服皆用之方言曲領于蔽膝不切或是圓領相近之他稱說文㡓幒也幒或作●師古曰褌今之也子雲隨手記之亦未切耳

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