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Scope: 通雅
Condition : Contains text “䘴”
Total 2

卷三十六

20
襜褕敞衣也襌衣单直身也袷复夹衣也褶袴戎服也蔽膝鞸也 直裾襌音丹衣也记曰襌为絅通作褧单衣也襜褕音占俞取其襜襜寛裕小尔雅谓之童容方言作●褣诗渐车帷裳疏容葢谓之童容四垂曰襜所谓鼈甲縁边之裧也衣似之故亦曰●褣●安侯衣襜褕入宫不敬注云若妇人服智以为襜褕大敞无两腋襞积故曰似妇人服也黄氏因小尔雅注与小颜说●亦谓之襜直以襜褕为蔽膝此特拘衣蔽前谓之襜耳孔文举以边文礼为九州被则不足为襜褕则有馀言遮一身也岂蔽膝乎汉书葢寛饶断其襌衣江充衣纱縠单衣马援都布单衣陆闳越布单衣方言江淮曰襟闗东西曰襌●今吾乡谓之亵子即褋音也通曰长衣或曰直身故两京通称道袍即汉之通裁也士丧礼浴衣于箧注浴之已浴所衣之衣布为之其制如今通裁方言褒明谓之袍汉谓长衣为褒魏明半褒言半大也郭若虚画记隋唐谓之冯翼今呼直裰即缝掖也袷音夹夹衣无絮也唐德宗在梁洋尚服袷褚之以绵曰复褚装衣也南越传上褚五十衣注绵装也褶徒颊切黄氏音习袴也唐韵袷也玉藻帛为褶注有表而无著袷一作袭说文袭左袵袍此则又近乎吾乡之所谓亵矣说文但以袴褶为戎服而不知与褶通之袭别自有义宁非误乎物原曰宋太祖制海青截褶效南蛮也今吴中呼直身曰海青恐是借其色则截褶亦谓亵也许慎既以袴褶解袭而孙愐又以袷释褶太淆混矣褶自可训袷衣因袴褶立名遂有左袵袍之目耳师古曰褶谓重衣之罩在上者其形若袍短身而广袖一曰左袵之袍也袴胫衣也大者曰倒顿小者曰䘨●皆上声此引方言也方言止言袴未言袴褶恐师古亦误郭璞曰倒顿今雹袴也䘨●今●袴也袴之两股曰襱龙陇二音郭璞曰今俗呼袴踦为襱袴一作絝朱博褒衣大袑音绍袴也方言曰●曰襱左传褰与襦注褰袴也无●之袴谓之襣今犊鼻褌合裆谓之褌汉外戚传竆絝注即今之裩裆相如犊鼻注今之衯也姚令威云医书膝上二寸为犊鼻穴褌长才至此此解未确智按古袴上连衣故戎衣谓之袴褶吕范自请为孙策都督出便释褠著袴褶师古所解重衣在上正谓今之罩甲半臂而短戎衣也戎衣或从边塞之制故有曰左袵者若单著袴而不著裙襦则脚口象犊鼻耳开元礼皇太子正至受羣臣贺若服袴褶羣官及宫臣皆袴褶太宗视朝衣白练裙襦常服则有袴褶与平巾帻通用翼善冠其后朔望视朝仍用弁服三朝志云窄袍乌纱帽便坐视事服之开元李适之奏冬至朝参幷六品清官服朱衣以下通服袴褶天宝志五品以上著珂伞贞元十五年归崇敬以百官朔望朝服袴褶非古礼罢之奏可蔽膝者于衣裳上著以蔽前也诗曰赤芾笺云冕服谓之芾其他谓之鞸一曰韍方言曰褘曰被曰袡襦曰曲领曰曰洁襦皆汉时四方之语近朝服以金织之前后二服曰黼黻以加襟裾其遗制也古人则庄服常服皆用之方言曲领于蔽膝不切或是圆领相近之他称说文㡓幒也幒或作●师古曰褌今之也子云随手记之亦未切耳

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