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《卷四》
3  | 王莽云：「鹽者，百肴之將。」余則曰：「飯者，百味之本。」《詩》稱：「釋之叟叟，蒸之浮浮。」是古人亦吃蒸飯。然終嫌米汁不在飯中。善煮飯者，雖煮如蒸，依舊顆粒分明，入口軟糯。其訣有四：一要米好，或「香稻」，或「冬霜」，或「晚米」，或「觀音秈」，或「桃花秈」，春之極熟，梅天風攤播之，不使惹黴發疹。一要善淘，淘米時不惜工夫，用手揉擦，使水從籮中淋出，竟成清水，無復米色。一要用火，先武後文，悶起得宜。一要相米放水，不多不少，燥濕得宜。往往見富貴人家，講菜不講飯。逐末忘本，真為可笑。余不喜湯澆飯，惡失飯之本味故也。湯果佳，寧一口吃湯，一口吃飯，分前後食之，方兩全其美。不得已，則用茶、用開水淘之，猶不奪飯之正味。飯之甘，在百味之上；知味者，遇好飯不必用菜。 |
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