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《卷三十 Volume 30》[View] [Edit] [History]

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1
卷三十·樹藝
Volume 30 · Shuyi

果部下 Lower Section of Fruit Department》

1
荔枝,《上林賦》曰:離枝;《蜀都賦》曰:荔枝。一名丹荔,一名飣坐真人。其類有三、四十種,以狀元香為最。然不如長樂勝,肉厚而味甘,為種中第一;第乾之不能如狀元香風味。《南記》曰:此木以荔枝為名者,以其結實時,枝弱而蒂牢,不可摘取,以刀斧剔去其枝,故以為名。生嶺南、巴中、泉、福、漳、興化、蜀、渝、涪、二廣州郡,皆有之。其品閩為最,蜀川次之,嶺南為下。樹形團圓如帷蓋;葉如冬青,華如橘,朵如蒲萄,核如枇杷,殼如紅繒,膜如紫綃。肉白如肪。花於二三月,實於五六月。
Lizhi. The "Shanglin Fu" says: Lizi; the "Shudu Fu" says: Lizhi. It is also known as Danli, and also called Dinzuo Zhenren. There are about thirty to forty kinds of it, with Zhuangyuanxiang being the best. However, none can surpass Zhangye, which has thick flesh and sweet flavor, ranking first among all varieties; yet when dried, it cannot match the flavor of Zhuangyuanxiang. The "Nan Ji" says: This tree is named Lizhi because when it bears fruit, the branches are weak but the stalks are firm, making it impossible to pluck. One must use a knife or axe to remove the branches, hence its name. It grows in Lingnan, Bazhong, Quan, Fu, Zhang, Xinghua, Shu, Yu, Fu, and the two Guangzhou commanderies; all these places have it. Among its varieties, Min is the best, Shuchuan comes next, and Lingnan is the worst. The tree has a round shape like an awning; its leaves resemble those of the holly, its flowers those of the tangerine, its clusters those of grapes, its seeds those of loquat, its rind is red like silk, and its membrane resembles purple gauze. Its flesh is white like fat. The flowers appear in the second or third month, and the fruit ripens in the fifth or sixth month.
2
《農桑通訣》曰:荔枝根浮,必須加糞土以培之。性不耐寒,最難培植,纔經繁霜,枝葉枯死;玄扈先生曰:亦云冬夏不凋。遇春二三月,再發新葉。初種五六年,冬月覆蓋之,以護霜雪。種之四五十年,始開花結實。其木堅固,有經四百餘年猶能結實者。
"The Nongsang Tongjue" says: The roots of lizhi are shallow, so it must be fertilized and cultivated with manure and soil. It is not cold-resistant and the most difficult to cultivate; even a light frost will cause its branches and leaves to wither and die. Xuhan Xiansheng said: It is also said that it does not shed its leaves in winter or summer. When spring arrives, in the second or third lunar month, new leaves sprout again. In the first five to six years after planting, cover it during winter months to protect against frost and snow. It takes forty to fifty years of cultivation before it begins to flower and bear fruit. The tree is sturdy, with some trees over four hundred years old still able to bear fruit.
3
熟時,人未,百蟲不敢近;人纔摘,諸鳥蝙蝠之類,群然傷殘。故者,必日中而眾之。最忌麝香,遇之花實盡落。凡果皆然。
When the fruit is ripe, before people harvest it, no insects dare approach; but as soon as people start picking, flocks of birds and bats come to damage them. Therefore, when harvesting, one must do so in the daytime when many are present. It is most sensitive to musk; if exposed to it, all its flowers and fruits will fall off. All fruits are like this.
4
曬荔:下,即用竹丙朗曬,經數日,色變核乾,用火焙之,以核十分乾硬為度。收藏用竹籠;箬葉裹之,可以致遠。成朵曬乾者,名為荔錦。其肉,生以蜜熬作煎,嚼之如糖霜然,名為荔煎。北方無此種。自漢南粵以備方物,於是荔枝始通中國。
Drying lizhi: After picking, use bamboo racks to sun-dry it for several days until the color changes and the seeds become dry. Then bake it with fire until the seeds are ten percent dry and hard. For storage, use bamboo cages; wrap them in ruo leaves, and they can be transported over long distances. Those dried in clusters are called Lijin. Its flesh, when boiled with honey into a syrup and chewed, feels like rock sugar; it is called Lijian. This variety does not grow in the north. Since the Han dynasty, southern Yue has sent these fruits as tribute items; thus, lizhi began to be known in China.
5
《農桑通訣》曰:漢唐時,命驛馳貢。洛陽取於嶺南,長安來於巴蜀。雖曰解獻傳置之速,然腐爛之餘,色香味之存者無幾。蓋此果若離本枝,一日色變,二日香變,三日味變;四五日外,色、香、味盡皆去矣。非惟中原不嚐生荔之味,江浙之間亦罕焉。今閩中歲首,亦曬乾者。昔李直方第果實,或薦荔枝,曰:「當舉之首。」魏文帝詔群臣曰:「南方果之珍異者,有荔枝龍眼焉。」今閩中荔枝初著花時,商人計林斷之以立券。一歲之出,不知幾千萬億。水浮陸轉,販鬻南北;外而西夏、新羅、日本、琉球、大食之屬,莫不愛好,重利以酬之。夫以一木之實,生於海濱巖險之遠,而能名徹上京,外被四夷,重於當世,是亦有足貴者。
"The Nongsang Tongjue" says: During the Han and Tang dynasties, it was ordered to be transported by relay stations as tribute. Luoyang obtained them from Lingnan, while Chang'an received them from Bashu. Although it was said that the relay stations ensured swift delivery, much of what arrived was rotten, with little remaining of its color, fragrance, or flavor. This fruit, once separated from its branch, changes color in one day, loses its fragrance in two days, and alters its flavor in three days; after four or five days, all of its color, aroma, and taste are completely gone. Not only did the Central Plains never taste fresh lizhi, but even in Jiangzhe regions it was rare. Nowadays, in Minzhong at the beginning of each year, there are also dried ones. In the past, Li Zhifang ranked fruits and said when someone recommended lizhi: "It should be placed at the top." Wei Wen Di issued an edict to his ministers, saying: "Among the precious and rare fruits of the south, there are lizhi and longyan." Nowadays in Minzhong, when lizhi trees first bloom, merchants estimate the yield of each grove to establish contracts. The annual output is unknown by how many billions or trillions. Transported by water and land, it is sold in the north and south; even distant regions such as Xixia, Silla, Japan, Liuchou, and Dashi all love it highly, offering generous profits for it. That the fruit of a single tree, growing in remote rocky and coastal areas, could gain fame reaching the imperial capital and be widely appreciated by foreign lands, valued highly in its time—this is indeed something precious.
6
龍眼,附山龍眼、龍荔,《廣雅》曰:益智,龍眼也。一名驪珠,一名龍目,一名比目,一名圓眼,一名蜜脾,一名燕卵,一名繡水團,一名海珠叢,一名川彈子,一名亞荔枝,一名荔枝奴。龍眼,花與荔枝同開,樹亦如荔枝,但枝葉稍小;殼青黃色,形如彈丸,核如木梡子而不堅,肉白而帶漿,其甘如蜜。熟於八月,白露後,方可摘。一朵五六十顆,作一穗。荔枝過,即龍眼熟,故謂之荔枝奴。福州、興化、泉州有之,比荔枝特罕。木性畏寒,北方亦無此種。今充歲貢焉。玄扈先生曰:乾龍眼肉勝荔枝;且能補心氣,大益人。鮮食之,大不如荔,真堪作奴。
Longyan, attached: Shuanglongyan, Longli, the "Guangya" says: Yizhi is also called Longyan. It is also known as LIZHU, Longmu, Bimu, Yuanyan, Mipi, Yanluan, Xiushuituan, Haizhucong, Chuandanzi, Yalizhi, and Lizhinu. Longyan: Its flowers bloom at the same time as lizhi, and its tree resembles that of lizhi, but with slightly smaller branches and leaves; its rind is yellowish-green in color, shaped like a bullet, the seed resembles a wuqizi (a type of fruit) but is not hard, the flesh is white with juice, and it is sweet as honey. It ripens in August; only after the White Dew solar term can it be harvested. Each cluster contains fifty to sixty fruits, forming a single ear. When lizhi season ends, longyan ripens; hence it is called Lizhinu (Lizhi's servant). Fuzhou, Xinghua, and Quanzhou have them, but they are rarer than lizhi. The tree is cold-sensitive; there is no such variety in the north either. It is now included as annual tribute. Xuhan Xiansheng says: Dried longyan flesh surpasses lizhi; it can replenish heart energy and is greatly beneficial to people. When eaten fresh, it is far inferior to lizhi, truly deserving the name "servant."
7
曬龍眼:下,用梅鹵浸一宿,取出曬乾,用火焙之,以核乾硬為度;如荔枝法收藏之。成朵乾者,名龍眼錦。附:山龍眼出廣中。夏月熟可啖。此亦龍眼之野生者。
Drying Longyan: After picking, soak it in plum brine for one night, then take it out and sun-dry. Bake with fire until the seed is dry and hard; store it as per lizhi methods. Those dried in clusters are named Longyanjin. Appendix: Shanlongyan grows in Guangzhong. It ripens and can be eaten in summer months. This is also a wild variety of longyan.
8
龍荔,出嶺南,狀如小荔枝,而肉味如龍眼。其身、葉亦似二果,故名曰龍荔。不可生啖,但可熬食。
Longli, grows in Lingnan; it resembles small lizhi but has flesh and flavor like longyan. Its trunk and leaves also resemble the two fruits, hence its name Longli. It cannot be eaten fresh but can only be cooked for consumption.
9
橄欖,附餘甘。橄欖,一名青果,一名忠果,一名諫果。生嶺南及閩、廣州郡。性畏寒,江浙難種。樹大數圍,實長寸許,形如訶子而無棱瓣。其子,先生者向下,後生者漸高。有野生者。波斯橄欖,生邕州;色類相似,但核作兩瓣,蜜漬食之。綠欖,色青綠,核內無仁,有亦乾小。烏欖,色青黑,肉爛而甘。取肉槌碎,乾,自有霜如白鹽,謂之欖醬。仁最肥大,有紋叢疊如海螵蛸,色白,外有黑皮,最甘嫩。方欖,出廣西兩江洞中,似橄欖,有三角或四角。
Ganlan, attached: Yugan. Ganlan is also known as Qingguo, Zhongguo, and Jianguo. It grows in Lingnan and the commanderies of Min and Guangzhou. It is cold-sensitive, making it difficult to cultivate in Jiangzhe. The tree can grow several zhu in girth; the fruit is about an inch long, shaped like hezi but without ridges or petals. Its fruits: those that develop first hang downward, while later ones gradually grow upward. There are also wild varieties. Persian olives grow in Yongzhou; they resemble ganlan in color and appearance, but their seeds split into two halves. They are eaten after being preserved in honey. Lülan: greenish in color; the seed contains no kernel, or if it does, it is dry and small. Wulan: dark green to black in color, with soft flesh that is sweet. Take the flesh, pound it into pieces, dry it; naturally formed frost resembling white salt appears on its surface, called Lanjiang. The kernel is the fattest and largest, with patterns overlapping like cuttlefish bone, white in color, covered by a black skin, and the sweetest and most tender. Fanglan grows in the Two Rivers Caves of Guangxi; it resembles ganlan but has three or four corners.
10
《農桑通訣》曰:樹峻,不可梯緣,但刻其根方寸許,內鹽於其中,一夕子皆自落。蜜藏極甜。生啖、煮食之,並消酒,解諸毒。人誤食鯸鮐即河魨魚肝,迷悶欲死者,飲其汁立解。以其木作楫,撥著魚,皆浮出。物之相畏,有如此者。此果南人尤重之。可作茶果。其味苦酸而澀,食久味方回甘,故昔人名為諫果。然消酒解毒,亦果中之有益於人者。一云:以木釘釘之,其子亦自落。
"The Nongsang Tongjue" says: The tree is tall and cannot be climbed with a ladder, but if one carves a square inch into its root and inserts salt inside, all the fruits will fall off overnight. Honey storage is extremely sweet. Eaten fresh or cooked, it can both eliminate alcohol and detoxify various poisons. If a person accidentally eats the liver of the i.e., hofu fish and feels dazed or near death, drinking its juice will immediately relieve the symptoms. Using its wood to make a paddle, when used to stir fish, they all float up. There are things in nature that fear each other just like this. This fruit is especially valued by people of the south. It can be made into tea fruits. Its flavor is bitter, sour, and astringent; only after prolonged consumption does sweetness emerge, hence ancient people named it Jianguo. However, its ability to eliminate alcohol and detoxify makes it one of the most beneficial fruits for humans. One method says: drive wooden nails into it; the fruits will also fall off on their own.
11
附:餘甘惟泉州有之,乃深山窮谷自生之物,非人家所種。其樹稍高,其子梭形,又如梅實,兩頭銳。始嚼,味酸澀,飲水乃甘。九月,比之橄欖,酷相似。以蜜藏之亦佳。
Appendix: Yugan is found only in Quanzhou; it is a naturally growing plant in deep mountains and remote valleys, not cultivated by people. Its tree is slightly taller, its fruit spindle-shaped, also resembling plums with pointed ends at both sides. When first chewed, it tastes sour and astringent; drinking water makes it sweet. In September, compared to ganlan, they are extremely similar in appearance. Preserving it with honey is also excellent.
12
櫻桃,附「山嬰桃」《爾雅》曰:楔、荊桃。郭璞注曰:「今櫻桃。」《廣雅》曰:楔桃,大者如彈丸子;有長八分者,有白色者,凡三種。孫炎云:大而甘者,謂之崖蜜。櫻桃一名楔,一名荊,一名英桃,一名鶯桃,一名含桃,一名朱櫻,一名牛桃,一名英。《西京雜記》列櫻桃、含桃為二種。蘇頌曰:櫻桃,處處有之,洛中者最勝。其實深紅者,謂之朱櫻,紫色、皮裏有細黃點者,謂之紫櫻,味最珍重。又有正黃明者,謂之蠟櫻,小而紅者,謂之櫻珠,味皆不及極大者。
Yingtao, attached: "Shanyingtao" The "Er Ya" says: Qie, Jingtao. Guo Pu's commentary says: "This is the modern yingtao." The "Guangya" says: Qietao, the large ones are as big as bullets; some grow to eight fen in length, and there are white-colored varieties. In total, there are three kinds. Sun Yan said: The large and sweet ones are called Yami. Yingtao is also known as Qie, Jing, Yingtao, Yingtao, Hantao, Zhuying, Niutao, and Ying. The "Xijing Zaji" lists yingtao and hantao as two separate varieties. Su Song said: Yingtao grows everywhere, but the ones in Luozhong are the best. The fruits that turn deep red are called Zhuying; those with purple color and fine yellow dots inside the skin are called Ziying, and their flavor is most prized. There are also bright yellow ones called Laying, and small red ones called Yingzhu; their flavors are all inferior to the largest varieties.
13
《齊民要術》曰:二月初,山中取栽。陽中者,還種陽地;陰中者,還種陰地。若陰陽易地,則難生,生亦不實。此果性生陰地;既入園囿,便是陽中,故多難得生。宜堅實之地,不可用虛糞也。又法:二三月間,分有根枝,栽土中。糞澆即活。
The "Qimin Yaoshu" says: In early February, take cuttings from mountain trees for planting. Those growing in sunny areas should be replanted in sunny locations; those growing in shaded areas should be planted back in shady places. If transplanted to a different light condition, they will have difficulty growing and even if they do grow, they won't bear fruit. This fruit naturally grows in shaded areas; once planted in gardens or enclosures, it becomes exposed to sunlight, hence it is often difficult for them to survive. It should be planted in firm and fertile soil, and manure should not be used. Another method: In February or March, divide branches with roots and plant them in the soil. They will sprout immediately after being watered with manure.
14
李時珍曰:三月熟時,須守護;否則鳥食無遺也。其法以二破竹相擊,鳥聞聲自去。或以網張其上,鳥亦不至。熟時以糞置其下,則一樹齊熟。鹽藏蜜煎,皆可久食。或同蜜搗作餻。唐人以酪煎食之,櫻桃經雨,則蟲自內生,人莫之見。用水浸良久,則蟲皆出,乃可食也。試之果然。
Li Shizhen said: During the ripening period in March, one must guard and protect them; otherwise, birds will eat all of them without leaving any. The method is to strike two split bamboo poles together; the birds will fly away upon hearing the sound. Alternatively, a net can be spread over them; in that case, the birds also won't come. When they are ripe, place manure beneath the trees, and all fruits on one tree will ripen uniformly. They can be preserved for a long time by salting or making them into honey preserves. Or they can be pounded together with honey to make a kind of paste. Tang people ate them by frying in curdled milk. If yingtao fruits are rained on, insects will develop inside, which people cannot see. Soak them in water for a long time, and the insects will come out; then they can be eaten. Testing it proved to be true.
15
附:山嬰桃。《本草》「釋名」朱桃、櫻、英豆、李桃。孟詵曰:此嬰桃俗名李桃,又名柰桃。前櫻桃名櫻,非桃也。《別錄》曰:嬰桃,實大如桃,多毛;四月,陰乾。陶弘景曰:櫻桃,即今朱櫻,可煮食者。嬰桃,形相似而實乖異。山間時有之。李時珍曰:樹如朱嬰,但葉長尖不團,子小而尖,生青、熟黃赤,亦不光澤。而味惡不堪食。
Appendix: Shanyingtao. The "Bencao" "Shiming" section lists it as Zhutao, Ying, Yingdou, and Litaoo. Meng Shen said: This yingtao is commonly known as Litaoo, also called Naitao. The previous yingtao was named Ying, but it is not a peach. The "Bie Lu" says: Yingtao has fruits as large as peaches, with many hairs; in April, they are dried in the shade. Tao Hongjing said: Yingtao is today's Zhuying, which can be cooked and eaten. Yingtao resembles it in shape but differs greatly in the fruit. They are occasionally found in mountainous areas. Li Shizhen said: The tree resembles Zhuying, but its leaves are long and pointed rather than rounded; the fruits are small and pointed, green when unripe, yellowish-red when ripe, and also not glossy. However, their taste is unpleasant and they cannot be eaten.
16
楊梅,《博物志》云:地瘴處,多生楊梅。一名朹子。生江南嶺南山谷間,會稽產者為天下冠。楊梅種類甚多,大葉者最早熟,味甚佳;次則卞山。本出苕溪,移植光福山中尤勝。又次為青蒂、白蒂,及大小松子。揚州呼白者為聖僧。樹若荔枝,葉細,青如龍眼。二月開花,結實如楮實子,肉在核上無皮殼。五月熟,生青,熟則有白、紅、紫三色。
Yangmei: According to the "Bowuzhi," areas with damp ground conditions often grow Yangmei. It is also known as Qiuzi. It grows in the valleys of southern mountains and Jiangnan, with those produced in Kuaiji being considered the best in the world. There are many varieties of Yangmei; the ones with large leaves ripen earliest and have excellent flavor; next is Bianshan. Originally from Tiaoxi, when transplanted into the mountains of Guangfu, they are especially superior. Next in quality are Qingdi, Baodi, and large and small Songzi. In Yangzhou, the white ones are called Shengseng. The tree resembles litchi; its leaves are slender and green like longan. It flowers in February, bearing fruit resembling Zhushizi, with the flesh on the seed without a skin or shell. They ripen in May; unripe they are green, and when ripe they come in white, red, and purple colors.
17
《便民圖纂》曰:六月間,取糞池中浸過核收盦。二月,鋤地種之。待長尺許,次年三月移栽。三四年後,取別樹生子枝條接之,複栽山地。其根,多留宿土,臘月開溝於根旁高處,離四五尺許,以夾糞壅之;不宜著根。每遇雨,肥水滲下,則結子肥大。
The "Bianmin Tuzuan" says: In June, take the seeds that have been soaked in manure pits and store them for planting. In February, till the land and plant them. Wait until they grow about a chi tall; transplant them in March of the following year. After three or four years, take branches with fruiting buds from other trees and graft them, then replant in hilly land. When transplanting, retain as much of the original soil around the roots as possible. In the twelfth lunar month, dig a trench several chi away from the base of the tree and apply manure to enrich it; avoid applying directly on the roots. Whenever it rains, the fertilizer water seeps down, resulting in large and plump fruits.
18
物類相感志》云:桑樹接楊梅,則不酸。樹上生癩,以甘草釘釘之,則去。鹽藏、蜜漬、糖、火酒浸,皆佳。
The "Wulv Xianggan Zhi" states: If a mulberry tree is grafted with Yangmei, the fruits will not be sour. If scabs appear on the tree, drive in a licorice root nail to remove them. They are all excellent when preserved with salt, honey, sugar, or soaked in firewater (burnt alcohol).
19
《林邑記》云:邑有楊梅,大如盃碗。青時酸,熟則如蜜。用以釀酒,號為「梅花酎」,甚珍重之。
The "Linyi Ji" states: In this region there are Yangmei fruits as large as cups and bowls. They are sour when green, but sweet like honey when ripe. Using them to brew wine is called "Meihua Chou," which is highly valued and treasured.
20
葡萄,附野葡萄。張騫使大宛,取葡萄實,於離宮別館旁盡種之。一名葡萄,一名賜紫櫻桃。《廣志》曰:有黃白黑三種。水晶葡萄,暈色帶白,如著粉;形大而長,味甘。紫葡萄,黑色,有大小二種,酸甜二味。綠葡萄,出蜀中,熟時色綠。至若西番之綠葡萄,名兔睛,味勝糖蜜,無核,則異品也。瑣瑣葡萄,出西番,實小如胡椒。小兒常食,可免生痘。又云痘不快,食之即出。{今中國亦有種者:一架中間生一二穗。雲南者,大如棗,味尤長。波斯國所出,大如雞卵,可生食,可釀酒。最難乾,不乾,不可收。《齊民要術》曰:蔓延性緣不能自舉,作架以承之。葉密陰厚,可以避熱。}
Grape, attached wild grape. Zhang Qian sent to Dayuan and obtained grape seeds, planting them extensively around the imperial palaces and pavilions. It is also known as Putao, or Cizi Yingtao. The "Guang Zhi" says: There are three varieties—yellow, white, and black. Shuijing Putao has a hazy color with a whitish hue, as if dusted with powder; it is large and elongated in shape, with sweet flavor. Zi Putao is black, with two varieties—large and small—and comes in both sour and sweet flavors. Lü Putao originates from Shuzhong; when ripe, its color remains green. As for the green grapes of Xifan, known as Tuqing, which are sweeter than sugar and honey, seedless, they belong to a special variety. Suosuo Putao comes from Xifan; its fruits are small like peppercorns. Children who eat them regularly can avoid getting smallpox. It is also said that if a child's smallpox does not break out smoothly, eating this fruit will help it to erupt. Nowadays in China there are also those who cultivate them: one or two clusters grow from the middle of a trellis. Those from Yunnan are as large as dates, with especially rich flavor. The ones produced in the Persian kingdom are as big as chicken eggs; they can be eaten raw or used to make wine. They are most difficult to dry, and if not dried properly, they cannot be stored. The "Qimin Yaoshu" says: Grapes have a trailing nature and cannot support themselves; they require trellises to bear the vines. Their leaves are dense and provide thick shade, which can help avoid heat.
21
《便民圖纂》曰:二三月間,截取藤枝,插肥地;待蔓長,引上架。根邊,以煮肉汁或糞水澆之。待結子,架上剪去繁葉,則子得成雨露肥大。冬月,將藤收起,用草包護,以防凍損。其根莖,中空相通;暮溉其根,至朝而水浸其中。澆以米泔水最良。以麝入其皮,則葡萄盡作香氣。以甘草作針針其根則立死。《三元延壽書》云:葡萄架下不可飲酒,恐蟲屎傷人。玄扈先生曰:須春分便插,太遲,則有漿出,損本。
The "Bianmin Tuzuan" says: In February or March, cut vine branches and insert them into fertile soil; when the vines grow long enough, guide them up onto a trellis. Near the roots, water with broth from boiled meat or manure water. Once fruits begin to form, prune off excessive leaves on the trellis so that the fruits can receive rain and dew, growing plump. In winter months, gather up the vines and wrap them in straw for protection against frost damage. The roots and stems are hollow and interconnected; if water is poured at the base in the evening, by morning it will have seeped into them. Watering with rice-washing water is most beneficial. If musk is placed inside the fruit's skin, then all grapes will emit a fragrant aroma. If licorice root is used as a needle to pierce its roots, the plant will die immediately. The "Sanyuan Yanshou Shu" states: One should not drink wine under a grape trellis, for fear that insect droppings may harm people. Xuanhu Xiansheng said: Cuttings must be planted right after the Vernal Equinox; if done too late, sap will flow and damage the plant.
22
又法,宜栽棗樹邊。春間,鑽棗樹作一竅,引葡萄枝從竅中過。候葡萄枝長,塞滿竅子,斫去葡萄根,托棗以生,其實如棗。十月中,去根一步許掘作坑,收卷葡萄悉埋之。近枝莖,薄安黍穰彌佳。無穰,直安土亦得,不宜濕,濕則冰凍。二月中,還出舒而上架。性不耐寒,不埋即死。其歲久根莖粗大者,宜遠根作坑,勿令莖折。其坑外處,亦掘土並穰培覆之。玄扈先生曰:北方必須舒卷,年遠亦難。南方竟以穰草裹根可也。
Another method is to plant them near jujube trees. In spring, drill a hole in the jujube tree and guide grape vines through it. When the grape vine grows, fill up the hole completely; then cut off the grape roots and let it rely on the jujube tree to grow. The resulting fruit resembles dates. In the tenth lunar month, dig a pit about one bu away from the roots and bury all the grape vines completely in it. Near the stems and branches, adding a thin layer of broomcorn millet chaff is even better. If there's no chaff available, simply covering with soil will suffice; however, it should not be too moist, as moisture can lead to freezing. In the second lunar month, unearth and spread them out again onto the trellis. They are not cold-resistant; if not buried, they will die. For older plants with thick and large roots and stems, dig pits at a distance from the main root to avoid breaking the stems. Also excavate soil and chaff around the outside of the pit for mounding and covering it. Xuanhu Xiansheng says: In northern regions, they must be unearthed and spread out; doing so over many years is also difficult. In southern regions, it suffices to wrap the roots with chaff or straw.
23
卷葡萄悉埋之。近枝莖,薄安黍穰彌佳。無穰,直安土亦得,不宜濕,濕則冰凍。二月中,還出舒而上架。性不耐寒,不埋即死。其歲久根莖粗大者,宜遠根作坑,勿令莖折。其坑外處,亦掘土並穰培覆之。玄扈先生曰:北方必須舒卷,年遠亦難。南方竟以穰草裹根可也。
Roll up and completely bury the grape vines. Near the branches and stems, a thin layer of millet chaff is even more ideal. If there is no chaff available, covering with soil alone will suffice; however, the area should not be too wet, as moisture may lead to freezing. In the second lunar month, unroll them and spread them out onto the trellis again. They are not cold-tolerant; if not buried, they die. For older plants with thick roots and stems, it is advisable to dig pits farther from the main root so as not to break the stems. Also excavate soil and straw around the outside of the pit to mound and cover it. Xuanhu Xiansheng said: In northern regions, they must definitely be unrolled and spread out; even after many years, this is difficult. In southern areas, it suffices to simply wrap the roots in straw or chaff.
24
正月末,取嫩枝長四五尺者,卷為小圈。先治地令鬆,沃之以肥。種時,止留二節在外。春氣萌動,發芽盡萃于出土二節。不一年,成大棚,實大而多液。生子時,去其繁葉遮露,則子尤大,忌澆人糞。《齊民要術》曰:摘葡萄法:逐熟者,一一零疊{一作摘取。從本至末,悉皆無遺。世人全房折殺者。}
At the end of the first lunar month, take tender branches about four or five chi long and roll them into small circles. First prepare the land to loosen it and enrich it with fertilizer. When planting, leave only two joints exposed outside. In spring when vitality begins to stir, all the sprouts will gather on the two joints above ground. Within a year, it becomes a large trellis, bearing large fruits with abundant juice. When the fruit is forming, remove dense leaves that block sunlight; this will make the fruit especially large. Avoid watering with human manure. The Qi Min Yao Shu says: The method of picking grapes: Pick those that are ripening gradually, one by one in succession.One version reads "plucking and taking." From the base to the tip, none should be left behind. Common people who completely destroy entire clusters are doing so recklessly.
25
卷為小圈。先治地令鬆,沃之以肥。種時,止留二節在外。春氣萌動,發芽盡萃於出土二節。不一年,成大棚,實大而多液。生子時,去其繁葉遮露,則子尤大,忌澆人糞。《齊民要術》曰:摘葡萄法:逐熟者,一一零疊{一作摘取。從本至末,悉皆無遺。世人全房折殺者。}
Roll them into small circles. First prepare the land to loosen it, and enrich it with fertilizer. When planting, leave only two nodes exposed above ground. In spring when vitality stirs, all the sprouts gather on the two nodes above ground. Within a year, it forms a large trellis with large fruits and abundant juice. When the fruit begins to form, remove dense leaves blocking sunlight; this makes the fruit especially large, and human manure should be avoided. The Qi Min Yao Shu states: The method of harvesting grapes: Pick those ripening gradually, one by one successively.One version reads "plucking and taking." From the base to the end, none should be left unharvested. Common people who recklessly destroy entire clusters.
26
作乾葡萄法:極熟者,一一零壓摘取。刀子切去蒂,勿令汁出。蜜兩分和,內葡萄中。煮四五沸,漉出陰乾便成矣。滋味倍勝,又夏月不敗。
The method of making dried grapes: Pick those that are extremely ripe, one by one and in succession. Cut off the stems with a knife, taking care not to let the juice flow out. Mix in two parts honey and place it inside the grapes. Boil for four or five times, then strain out and air-dry until done. The flavor is significantly better, and it will not spoil during summer months.
27
藏葡萄法:極熟時,全房折取。於屋下作蔭坑,坑內近地鑿壁為孔,插枝於孔中,還築孔使堅。屋子置土覆之,經冬不異也。
Method for preserving grapes: At the time of extreme ripeness, remove entire clusters. Dig a shaded pit beneath the house; near the ground inside the pit, bore holes into the walls and insert branches into these holes. Then pack around the holes to make them firm. Cover the branches with soil in the house; they will remain undamaged through winter.
28
玄扈先生曰:葡萄作酒,極有利益,然非西種不可。亦可作醋作糖。今山西亦作酒,然不真也。
Xuanhu Xiansheng remarked: Making wine from grapes is extremely beneficial, but it can only be done with western varieties. It may also be used to make vinegar or sugar. Nowadays, Shanxi also produces wine, but it is not genuine.
29
附:野葡萄:一名蘡薁,一名山葡萄,蔓生苗葉,花實與葡萄相似;但實小而圓,色不甚紫,堪為酒。
Appendix: Wild grape: Also known as Yingyu, also called mountain grape. It grows on vines with seedlings and leaves similar to grapes; however, its fruits are small and round, not very purple in color, but suitable for making wine.
30
銀杏,一名白果,一名鴨腳子。銀杏,以白得名;鴨腳取其葉之似。其木多曆歲年,其大或至連抱,可作棟樑。多生江南,以宣城者為勝。二月開花成簇,青白色;二更開花,隨即卸落,人罕見之。一枝結子百十,狀如楝子;經霜乃熟。爛去肉,取核為果。
Ginkgo, also known as Baiguo, or Yajiaozǐ. Ginkgo is named for its white color; the name "Yajiao" refers to how its leaves resemble duck feet. The tree often lives for many years, and some grow so large they can be as wide as a person's armspan; it is suitable for use as beams or pillars. It commonly grows in southern Jiangsu, with the best quality coming from Xuancheng. In February it blooms in clusters of pale greenish-white flowers; they open during the second watch of the night and fall off immediately, rarely seen by people. One branch bears dozens or hundreds of fruits, resembling those of the Chinese mahogany tree; they ripen only after frost. Remove the flesh until rotten and take the kernel as a fruit.
31
《便民圖纂》曰:春初,種於肥地。候長成小樹,來春和土移栽。以生子樹枝接之,則實茂。
The Bianmin Tuzuan says: In early spring, plant in fertile soil. Wait until it grows into a small tree, then transplant with soil during the following spring. If grafted onto branches from fruit-bearing trees, the fruits will be abundant.
32
農桑通訣》曰:春分前後移栽。先掘深坑,水攪成稀泥,然後下栽子。掘取時,連土封用草要或麻繩纏束,則不致碎破土封。其子,至秋而熟。初收時,小兒不宜食,食則昏霍。惟炮煮作果食為美。以澣油,甚良。顆如綠李,積而腐之,惟取其核,即銀杏也。
The Nongsang Tongjue says: Transplant before or after the Spring Equinox. First dig a deep pit, stir water to make it into thin mud, then plant the seedlings. When digging up, wrap the root ball with straw or hemp rope to prevent it from breaking apart. The fruits ripen by autumn. When first harvested, children should not eat them; consumption may cause dizziness or fainting. Only when processed and cooked into dried fruit is it delicious. Using its oil for washing is very effective. The fruits resemble green plums; after collecting and allowing them to rot, only the kernels are taken—these are ginkgo nuts.
33
其木有雌雄之意:雄者不結實,雌者結實。其實,亦有雌雄:雌者二棱,雄者三棱。須雌雄同種,其樹相望,乃結實。或雌樹臨水照影,或鑿一孔,納雄木一塊泥之,亦結。
These trees have distinct male and female forms: males do not bear fruit, while females do. Its fruits also exhibit gender distinctions: the female ones are two-lobed, and the male ones three-lobed. Male and female trees must be planted together; only when they face each other will fruiting occur. Alternatively, if a female tree is near water and reflects its image, or if a hole is drilled into it and a piece of male wood is inserted with mud, fruiting may also occur.
34
采摘:熟時,以竹薎箍樹本,擊薎,則銀杏自落。
Harvesting: When ripe, fasten a bamboo ring around the base of the tree and strike it; then the ginkgo fruits will fall off by themselves.
35
枇杷,《上林賦》曰:盧橘。枇杷易種。葉微似栗,冬夏不凋。冬花、春實、夏熟。大者如雞子,小者如龍眼。白者為上,黃者次之。無核者名焦子,出廣州。李時珍曰:枇杷非盧橘也。
Loquat: In the Shanglin Fu, it is called Luju. Loquats are easy to plant. Its leaves slightly resemble chestnuts and remain evergreen in winter and summer. It flowers in winter, bears fruit in spring, and ripens in summer. The large ones are as big as eggs, the small ones like longan fruits. White ones are superior; yellow ones are of secondary quality. Seedless varieties are called Jiaozǐ, and they originate from Guangzhou. Li Shizhen said: Loquat is not the same as Luju.
36
《便民圖纂》曰:以核種之,即出。待春移栽。三月宜接。
The Bianmin Tuzuan states: Planting with seeds will produce growth immediately. Transplant in spring. Grafting is suitable in March.
37
橘,附柑、柚、佛手柑、金橘、金豆。《禹貢》曰:厥包:橘、柚,錫貢。注云:大曰柚,小曰橘。然自是兩種。橘有數種:有綠橘,有紅橘,有蜜橘,有金橘,而洞庭橘為勝,今充土貢。又有黃橘:扁小,多香霧,為上品。芳塌橘:狀大而扁,外綠心紅,巨瓣多液。春熟,甚美。包橘:外薄內盈,隔皮可數。綿橘:微小,極軟美可愛。不多結。凍橘:八月花開,冬結、春采。穿心橘:實大皮光,心虛可穿。又有沙橘、早黃橘、朱橘、荔枝橘、乳橘。油橘,橘之下品。生南山、川谷,及江浙荊襄皆有之。木高可丈許,刺出於莖間。夏初,生白花。至冬實黃。踰淮則化為枳。閩中柑橘,以漳州為最;福州次之。樹多接成,惟種成者氣味尤勝。
Tangerines, including gan (mandarin oranges), yu (pomelos), foshougan (fingered citrons), jinju (golden tangerines), and jindou (golden beans). The Yu Gong says: Its tribute includes tangerines, yu, and xigong. The commentary states: The large ones are called yu, the small ones ju (tangerines). However, they are two distinct varieties. Tangerines have several varieties: green tangerines, red tangerines, honey tangerines, golden tangerines; among them, the Dongting tangerine is the best and is now offered as local tribute. There are also yellow tangerines: flat and small, with a strong aromatic fragrance, considered superior quality. Fantajú: large and flat in shape, green on the outside and red at the core, with large segments and abundant juice. They ripen in spring and are exceptionally delicious. Baoju: thin rind with a full interior, the segments can be counted through the peel. Mianju: slightly small, extremely soft and deliciously delightful. They do not bear much fruit. Dongju: flowers bloom in August, fruits set in winter and are harvested in spring. Chuansinju: large fruit with smooth skin, the core is hollow enough to thread through. There are also sha ju (sand tangerines), zao huang ju (early yellow tangerines), zhu ju, lizhi ju (lychee tangerines), and ru ju. Youju is the inferior grade of tangerine. They grow in southern mountains and river valleys, as well as in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jingxiang, and other regions. The tree can be about a zhang tall, with spines growing between the stems. In early summer, it produces white flowers. By winter, the fruits turn yellow. When transplanted across the Huai River, they transform into zhi (a bitter citrus). In Fujian, tangerines are best from Zhangzhou; Fuzhou is second in quality. Most trees are grafted, but those grown from seed have a particularly superior flavor.
38
《便民圖纂》曰:正月間,取核撒地上。冬月搭棚,春和撤去。待長二三尺許,二月移栽。澆忌豬糞。既生橘,摘後又澆。有蟲,則鑿開蛀處,以鐵線鉤取。一說:以杉木塞其孔,則蟲自死。取蟲訖,以硫黃和土塞其竅。
The Bianmin Tuzuan says: In the first lunar month, take the seeds and scatter them on the ground. In winter, set up a shed; remove it in spring when the weather warms. Wait until they grow to about two or three chi tall, then transplant them in February. Watering should avoid using pig manure. After the tangerines have grown, water them again after picking. If there are pests, dig open the infested areas and use an iron wire to hook out the insects. One method says: plug the holes with cypress wood, and the pests will die on their own. After removing the insects, fill the holes with sulfur mixed with soil.
39
《農桑通訣》曰:種植之法,種子及栽皆可。以枳樹截接,或掇栽,尤易成。宜於肥地種之。冬收實後,須以火糞培壅,則明年花實俱茂。乾旱時,以米泔灌溉,則實不損落。
The Nongsang Tongjue says: The method of planting can be either by seed or by transplanting. Cutting and grafting onto a zhi tree, or layering for planting, is especially easy to succeed with. It should be planted in fertile soil. After harvesting the fruits in winter, it is necessary to apply hot manure as fertilizer; this will ensure abundant flowers and fruits the following year. lòng If there is drought, irrigate with rice-washing water, then the fruits will not be damaged or fall off.
40
玄扈先生曰:此樹極畏寒,宜于西北種竹,以蔽寒風,又須常年搭棚,以護霜雪。霜降搭棚,穀雨卸卻。樹大不可搭棚,可用礱糠襯根,柴草裹幹,或用蘆⒎寬裹根幹,礱糠實之。
Xuanhu Xiansheng said: This tree is extremely cold-sensitive. It should be planted with bamboo to the northwest, to shield it from cold winds; additionally, a shed must be set up year-round to protect against frost and snow. Set up the shed at Shuangjiang (Frost's Descent), and remove it at Guyu (Grain Rain). For larger trees, it is not possible to set up a shed. Instead, use paddy husk to line the roots, wrap the trunk with firewood or straw, or use wide reed strips to wrap the root and trunk, filling them with paddy husk.
41
須記南枝。掘深坑,糞河泥實底,方下樹下土,滿半坑,築實,又下糞河泥,方下土平坑。又下糞河泥,又加築實,則旺。凡樹耐肥者,皆用此法。
It is essential to mark the southern branches. Dig a deep pit, and fill the bottom with manure and river mud. Then add soil from under the tree and around it to half-fill the pit, tamping it down firmly; then add more manure and river mud before finally filling the pit level with ordinary soil. Add another layer of manure and river mud, tamp it down firmly again, and this will promote vigorous growth. For any tree that can tolerate rich fertilizer, this method should be used.
42
以死鼠浸坑中,浮起,取埋根中,極肥。
Place a dead rat in the pit to soak; when it floats up, take it out and bury it among the roots—it is extremely nutritious.
43
《種樹書》曰:南方柑橘雖多,然亦畏霜,不甚收。惟洞庭,霜雖多無所損,橘最佳。歲收不耗,正謂此焉。以死鼠浸溺缸內,候鼠浮,取埋橘樹根下,次年必盛。《涅槃經》云:「如橘得鼠,其果子多。」橘見屍則多實。
The Zhongshu Shu says: Although southern China has many citrus trees, they still fear frost and do not yield very well. Only in Dongting Lake is there no damage even with frequent frosts; the tangerines are of the best quality. The harvest remains abundant without decline—this refers precisely to this place. Place a dead rat inside a soaking jar, wait until the rat floats up, then take it out and bury it beneath the tangerine tree's roots; the following year will surely be bountiful. The Nirvana Sutra says: "Like a tangerine tree that gets a rat, its fruit will be abundant." Tangerine trees produce more fruit when they see a corpse.
44
玄扈先生曰:冬寒無損,正因種者多,且培植有方耳。惟閩廣地暖,即無損耗,而實甚佳,勝浙者十倍。
Xuanhu Xiansheng says: The reason there is no damage from winter cold is precisely because many are planted, and cultivation methods are proper. Only in Fujian and Guangdong, where the climate is warm, do tangerines suffer no damage, and their fruit is exceptionally good—ten times better than those from Zhejiang.
45
橘、柚、橙、柑等,須於臘月,根邊寬作盤,連糞三次,不宜著根。遇春旱,以水澆之,雨則不必,花實並茂。橘之種不一:惟扁橘、蜜罐、甜瓶為佳,湘橘耐久。
Tangerines, pomelos, oranges, and mandarins should be fertilized three times in the twelfth lunar month. Dig a wide basin around the roots and apply manure; however, it should not touch the roots directly. During spring droughts, water them; if there is rain, no need to water—flowers and fruits will both flourish. Tangerines have many varieties: only flat tangerines, mihuan (honey jars), and tiaping (sweet bottles) are considered the best; Xiangju is particularly long-lasting.
46
最忌豬糞。以茅灰及羊糞壅之,多生實。
They most strongly dislike pig manure. Apply a mixture of straw ash and sheep manure, and they will produce many fruits.
47
《農桑輯要》曰:西川唐鄧,多有栽種成就,懷州亦有舊日橘樹。北地不見此種;若於附近面,訪學栽植,甚得濟用。畏寒多死,北地非宜。《述異記》曰:越多橘、柚園。越人歲出橘稅。
The Nongsang Jiyao says: In western Shu's Tang and Deng, many have successfully planted them; Huizhou also has old tangerine trees from previous times. This variety is not seen in northern regions; if one visits nearby areas to study and plant them, it will be very beneficial. They fear the cold and often die, so they are unsuitable for planting in northern regions. The Shuyiji says: Yue has many tangerine and pomelo orchards. The people of Yue pay a tangerine tax every year.
48
收藏:十月後,將金橘安錫器內,或芝麻雜之,經久不壞。藏菉豆中尤妙。近米即爛。又法:鋪乾松毛,藏于不近酒處,多不壞。
Storage: After October, place golden tangerines in tin containers, or mix them with sesame seeds; they will remain unspoiled for a long time. Storing them among green beans is especially effective. If stored near rice, they will rot. Another method: spread dry pine needles and store them in a place away from alcohol; this prevents spoilage.
49
《農桑通訣》曰:惟皮與核堪入藥用,皮之陳者最良。又宜作食料。其肉,味甘酸,食之多痰,不益人。以蜜煎之,為煎則佳。《食貨志》云:「蜀漢江陵千樹橘,其人與千戶侯等。」
The Nongsang Tongjue says: Only the peel and seeds are suitable for medicinal use, with older peels being the best. They are also suitable as ingredients in food. The flesh is sweet and sour; eating it produces excessive phlegm and is not beneficial to health. When cooked with honey, the syrup becomes excellent. The Shihuo Zhi says: "In Shuhan's Jiangling, a thousand tangerine trees are worth as much as the wealth of a thousand-household marquis."
50
夫橘,南方之珍果,味則可口,皮核愈疾,近升盤俎,遠備方物。而種植之,獲利又倍焉。其利世益人,故非可與他果同日語也。
Tangerines are precious fruits of the south; their taste is pleasant, and both peel and seeds can cure diseases. They are enjoyed on dining tables nearby and serve as regional specialties for distant places. Planting them brings double the profit. Its benefits have long benefited people, so it cannot be compared to other fruits on equal terms.
51
柑,一名木奴,一名瑞金奴。《農桑通訣》曰:柑、甘也;橘之甘者也。莖葉無異於橘,但無刺為異耳。生江漢唐鄧間。而泥山者,名乳柑,地不彌一裏所,其柑大倍常,皮薄味珍,脈不粘瓣,食不留滓,一顆之核纔一二,間有全無者。然又有生柑,有郛柑,有海紅柑,有衢柑,雖品不同,而溫台之柑最良,歲充土貢焉。江浙之間種之甚廣,利亦殊博。又有山柑,洞庭柑,出洞庭;皮細味美,熟最蚤。甜柑,每顆八瓣,未霜先黃。饅頭柑、生枝柑、平蒂柑,大如升,出成都。朱柑、大柑、黃柑、白柑、沙柑,江南嶺南為盛,蜀次之,實似橘而圓大。未經霜,猶酸;霜後始熟。柑樹猶畏冰雪。
Gan (mandarin orange), also known as Muni and Ruojin Nu. The Nongsang Tongjue says: Gan means sweet; it is the sweetest among tangerines. Its stems and leaves are no different from those of a tangerine, except that it lacks spines—this is the only difference. It grows between Jianghan, Tang, and Deng. Those from Nishan are called Ru Gan. The area is no more than one li in size, yet the fruit is twice as large as usual; its skin is thin and its flavor exquisite, with veins not adhering to the segments. When eaten, it leaves no residue behind, and a single fruit contains only one or two seeds—some even have none at all. There are also Shenggan, Fugan, Haihong Gan, and Qu Gan. Though their varieties differ, the citrus from Wenti is considered the best and has long been used as a local tribute offering each year. Between Jiangsu and Zhejiang, it is widely cultivated, bringing particularly substantial profits. There are also shan gan (mountain mandarins) and Dongting Gan from Lake Dongting; they have fine skin, delicious flavor, and ripen the earliest. Tian Gan has eight segments per fruit and turns yellow before frost arrives. Mantou Gan, Shengzhi Gan, and Pingdi Gan are as large as a sheng (a traditional measuring vessel) in size and originate from Chengdu. Zhu Gan, Da Gan, Huang Gan, Bai Gan, and Sha Gan are most abundant in the Jiangnan and Lingnan regions; Sichuan is second. Their fruits resemble tangerines but are rounder and larger. Before frost, they remain sour; only after frost do they ripen. Gan trees still fear ice and snow.
52
栽種:與橘同。
Planting: The method is the same as for tangerines.
53
《種樹書》曰:柑樹為蟲所食,取蟻窠於其上,則蟲自去。柑之大者,擘破氣如霜霧。
The Zhongshu Shu says: If citrus trees are eaten by insects, place ant nests on them; the pests will then leave on their own. The largest mandarins, when split open, emit a fragrance like frost and mist.
54
李衡,於武陵龍陽洲上種柑千樹,謂其子曰:「吾州里有千頭木奴,不責汝衣食,歲上一匹絹,亦足用矣。」及柑成,歲輸絹數千匹。故史游《急就篇》註云:「木奴千,無凶年。」蓋言可以市易穀帛也。
Li Heng planted a thousand citrus trees on Longyang Zhou in Wuling. He told his son, "My hometown has ten-thousand-fruit tree slaves; they do not demand your clothing or food. If you offer one bolt of silk per year, it will be sufficient." When the citrus trees bore fruit, each year thousands of bolts of silk were delivered as tribute. Therefore, in his commentary on Jiju Pian, Shi You said: "A thousand tree slaves mean no years of famine." This means that they can be traded for grain and silk.
55
柚,《爾雅》曰:柚條。又曰櫠椵。郭璞曰:「柚屬也,似橙而實酢,大於橘。」橘皮薄,味辛苦;柚皮厚而肥甘。其肉,有甘有酸;酸者名胡柑。一名條,一名櫾,一名壺柑,一名臭橙。《廣雅》謂之鐳。實有大小二種:小者如柑如橙,俗呼為蜜筩;大者如升如瓜,俗呼為朱欒。有圍及尺餘者,俗呼香欒。閩中、嶺外、江南皆有之。南人種其核;云:長成、以接柑橘,甚良《呂氏春秋》曰:果之美者,有雲夢之柚。
Pomelo: The Er Ya says: "You tiao." It is also called "yue zhi." Guo Pu said: "This belongs to the pomelo family. It resembles an orange but has a sour taste and is larger than a tangerine." Tangerines have thin peels with a bitter-sour flavor; pomelos have thick, fleshy peels and are sweet. Its flesh can be either sweet or sour; the sour variety is called Hugan. It is also known as Tiao, You, Hu Gan, and Choucheng. The Guangya refers to it as Lei. There are two types of fruit: the small ones resemble mandarins and oranges, commonly called Mitong; the large ones are as big as a sheng or melon, commonly known as Zhuluan. Some have circumferences of over one chi, and are commonly called Xiangluan. They can be found in Fujian, south of the Ling Mountains, and in Jiangnan. People from the south plant their seeds, saying: When they grow up and are used to graft mandarins or tangerines, the results are excellent. The Lüshi Chunjou says: Among fine fruits, there is the yunmeng you (pomelo of Yunmeng).
56
佛手柑,木似朱欒,而葉尖長,枝間有刺。植之近水乃生。其實如人手,有指,有長尺餘者。皮皺而光澤,味不甚佳,而清香襲人。置衣笥中,雖形乾而香不歇。可糖煎、蜜煎、作果,甚佳。搗蒜罨其蒂,香更充溢。浸汁洗葛紵,絕勝酸漿。
Foshou Gan: The tree resembles Zhuluan, with long and pointed leaves, and spines between the branches. It must be planted near water to grow well. Its fruit resembles a human hand, with fingers and some growing over one chi long. The peel is wrinkled yet lustrous; the flavor is not particularly excellent, but its fragrance is refreshing and captivating. Place it in a clothes chest: even as it dries out, its fragrance does not fade. It can be candied with sugar or honey and made into preserves; the results are excellent. Grind garlic and apply it to its base, and the fragrance becomes even more abundant. Soak its juice to wash kudzu or ramie fabric; it is far superior to sorrel.
57
金橘,一名金柑,一名夏橘。吳越江浙川廣間出,營道者為冠。五月開白花。秋冬黃熟。大者徑寸,小者如指頭。糖造蜜煎皆佳,廣人連枝藏之,入膾醋尤香美。
Jinju: Also known as Jingan and Xiaju. It is produced in various regions such as Wuyue, Jiangzhe, Chuan, and Guang; the ones from Yingdao are considered the best. It produces white flowers in May. They turn yellow and ripen during autumn and winter. łoż The large ones have a diameter of one cun, while the small ones are as big as a fingertip. Both candied and honey-roasted versions are excellent; the people of Guangdong store them with their branches intact, and they become especially fragrant and delicious when added to vinegar for minced meat dishes.
58
《便民圖纂》曰:金橘:三月,將枳棘接之;至八月移栽肥地。灌以糞水為佳。
The Bianmin Tuzuan says: For Jinju: in March, graft it onto a trifoliate orange rootstock; by August, transplant it to fertile soil. Watering it with manure water is ideal.
59
金豆,一名山金柑,一名山金橘。木高尺許,實如櫻桃,生青熟黃,形圓而光溜。皮甜可食,味清而香美,可蜜漬。
Jindou: Also known as Shanjingan and Shanjinju. The tree is about one chi tall, with fruit resembling cherries; they are green when unripe and yellow when ripe, round in shape and smooth. The peel is sweet and edible, with a clear flavor and pleasant fragrance; it can be preserved in honey.
60
橙,《埤雅》曰:「橙,柚屬;可登而成」,故字從登。一名棖,一名金球,一名鵠殼。葉有兩刻缺者是也。似橘樹而有刺,葉大而形圓;皮甚香,厚而皺。其瓤味酸。唐鄧間多有之,江南尤盛。北地亦無此種,過淮則化為枳。
Cheng: The Biya says, "Cheng is a type of pomelo; it can be cultivated and mature," hence the character includes 登 (deng). Also known as Deng, Jingqiu, and Huke. The leaves with two notches are the correct ones. It resembles a mandarin orange tree but has spines, large and round leaves; its peel is very fragrant, thick and wrinkled. Its segments have an acidic flavor. It is commonly found between Tang and Deng, but especially abundant in Jiangnan. There are no such plants in the northern regions; beyond the Huai River, they transform into trifoliate oranges.
61
種植:與橘同。
Cultivation: same as for mandarin oranges.
62
其皮香氣馥,可以熏衣,可以芼鮮。可以和菹醢,可以為醬齏,可以蜜煎,可以糖為橙丁,可以蜜為橙膏。嗅之則香,食之則美,誠佳果也。
Its peel has a rich fragrance, which can be used to scent clothes or flavor fresh dishes. It can be used to season pickled relishes, make sauces and brines, candied with honey, made into sugar-coated orange cubes, or processed into orange paste with honey. Smelling it is fragrant; eating it is delicious—truly an excellent fruit.
63
其瓤洗去酸汁,細切,和蜜鹽煎成,食之亦佳。
Wash the segments to remove their sour juice, cut them finely, mix with honey and salt, then cook until done; it is also delicious when eaten.
64
桑葚,栽種別見蠶桑部《爾雅》曰:「桑,嗅有葚,梔。」
Mulberry: Cultivation details are separately listed in the Sericulture section. The Er Ya says, "Sang: if it has shen, then it is Zhi."
65
《農桑通訣》曰:嘗考之史傳:三國魏武祖軍乏食,乃得乾葚以濟饑。《魏志》武祖軍無糧,新鄭長楊沛進乾葚。後遷沛為鄴令。後漢王莽時,天下大荒;有蔡順,葚赤黑別盛之。赤眉賊見而問之,順曰:「黑者奉母,赤者自食。」蓋桑葚,乾濕皆可食,可以救儉。昔聞之故老云:前金之末饑歉,民多餓莩。至夏初青黃未接,其桑葚已熟,民皆食葚,獲活者不可勝計。凡植桑多者,葚黑時,悉宜振落箔上曬乾。平時可當果食,歉歲可飢餓。雖世之珍異果實,未可比之。適用之要,故錄之。
The Nongsang Tongjue says: Upon examining historical records, it is said that during the Three Kingdoms period, Wei Wu (Cao Cao) was short of food for his army and thus obtained dried mulberries to relieve hunger. The Wei Zhi records that when Wei Wu's army ran out of provisions, Yang Pei, the magistracy official of Xinzheng, presented dried mulberries. Later, Pei was transferred to serve as magistrate of Ye. 𝑙 In the Later Han period during Wang Mang's reign, there was a great famine across the land; there was a man named Cai Shun who separately collected red and black mulberries in different containers. When the Chimei rebels saw this, he answered: "The black ones are for my mother; the red ones I eat myself." Indeed, mulberries can be eaten either fresh or dried and may serve as a remedy in times of scarcity. I once heard from old-timers that during the final years of the Former Jin dynasty, there was a famine and many people starved to death. By early summer, when the new grain had not yet ripened and the old supply was exhausted, mulberries were already ripe; people ate them to survive, and countless lives were saved. Those who plant many mulberry trees should, when the berries turn black, shake them all onto mats to dry in the sun. Normally they can serve as fruit; during lean years, they can relieve hunger. Even the rare and precious fruits of the world cannot be compared to them. Because of its practical importance, it is recorded here.
66
玄扈先生曰:桑生葚者,葉小而薄。故蠶桑之家,不得有葚。
Master Xuanhu said: Mulberry trees that bear shen have small and thin leaves. Therefore, in households engaged in sericulture, there must be no mulberries (shen).
67
木瓜,《爾雅》曰:「楙、木瓜。」郭璞注曰:「實如小瓜,酢,可食。」一名鐵腳梨。山陰蘭亭尤多,西京亦有之,而宣城者為佳。李時珍曰:其葉光而厚;其實,如小瓜而有鼻。津潤、味不木者,為木瓜;圓小於木瓜,味木而酢濇者,為木桃;似木瓜而無鼻,大於木桃,味濇者,為木李,亦曰木梨;即榠樝及和圓子也。鼻乃花脫處,非臍蒂也。
Wu Gua: The Er Ya says, "Mao is Wu Gua." 𝑙 Guo Pu's commentary states: "Its fruit resembles a small melon, sour and edible." Also known as Tiejiao Li. It is especially abundant in Lanting, Shanyin; it also exists in Xijing, but the ones from Xuancheng are considered superior. Li Shizhen said: Its leaves are glossy and thick; its fruit resembles a small gourd with a stem. Those with juicy flesh and a non-woody taste are called muhua; those that are rounder, smaller than muhua, with a woody and sour texture are called mutao; those resembling muhua but without a stem, larger than mutao, and with a rough texture are called muli, also known as muli; these are the same as papeda and heyuanyizi. The "nose" is where the flower falls off, not the navel or stalk.
68
《農桑通訣》曰:木瓜:種子及栽皆得。壓枝亦生,栽種與桃李同法。秋社前後移栽;至次年,率多結實,勝春栽者。
The Nongsang Tongjue says: For muhua: it can be propagated by seeds or planting. It can also sprout from bent branches; its cultivation method is the same as for peaches and plums. Transplanting should be done before or after the Autumn Society; by the following year, they often bear fruit abundantly and outperform those planted in spring.
69
宣城人種蒔最謹,始實,則簇紙花薄其上,夜露日曝漸而變紅,花又如生。本州以充土貢。故有「天下宣城花木瓜」之稱。《廣志》曰:木瓜,子可藏,枝可為數號,一尺百二十節。
The people of Xuancheng cultivate them with the utmost care; once they begin to bear fruit, they place thin paper flowers over them. Exposed to night dew and daytime sun gradually turning red, the paper flowers resemble living ones. The local prefecture presents it as a tribute of native produce. Thus, it is known as the "Xuancheng paper-flower muhua of the world." The Guang Zhi says: Muhua—its fruit can be stored, and its branches can be used to make counting rods, with one chi containing 120 joints.
70
《詩義疏》曰:欲啖者,截著熱灰中,令萎蔫。淨洗,以苦酒頭汁蜜之,可案酒食。蜜封藏百日,乃食之,甚美。凡腰腎腳膝者,服食不宜闕,以蜜漬食,亦堪益人。蜜漬之法:先切皮,煮令熟,著水中,拔去酸味,卻以蜜熬成煎,藏之。又宜去子爛蒸,擂作泥,入蜜與作煎,飲用。冬月尤美。夫木瓜,得木之正,故入筋。試以钅公霜塗之,則失醋味,受金之製也。五行相克刂之義,於此蓋亦可驗。此果既能愈疾,又宜飲啖,兼用有益,誠可貴焉。陶弘景曰:「木瓜最療轉筋,如轉筋時,但呼其名,及書土作木瓜字,皆愈。此理亦不可解。俗人拄木瓜杖,云利筋脈也」。
The Shi Yishu says: For those who wish to eat it, cut the fruit and place it in hot ashes until it wilts. Wash it thoroughly, then soak it in a mixture of vinegar and honey; it can be served with wine or food. Seal it in honey for 100 days before eating—it is very delicious. For those with ailments of the waist, kidneys, legs, or knees, it should not be omitted from their diet; preserved in honey and eaten, it is also beneficial to health. The method of preserving in honey: first peel the fruit, cook it until tender, place it in water to remove its sour taste, then simmer with honey into a syrup and store it. It is also suitable to remove the seeds, steam until soft, mash into paste, mix with honey to make a syrup for drinking. It is especially delicious in winter months. Muhua embodies the true nature of wood, hence it enters and benefits the tendons. If tested by applying frosty metal to it, its sour flavor disappears—this is because it is affected by the element of Metal. The principle of mutual overcoming among the Five Elements can indeed be verified in this case. This fruit is not only capable of curing diseases but also suitable for drinking and eating; its combined use brings benefits, truly making it precious. Tao Hongjing said: "Muhua is most effective in treating cramps. When someone experiences a cramp, simply calling out its name or writing the character 木瓜 on the ground with soil can cure it." This principle cannot be easily explained. "The common people carry muhua canes, claiming they benefit tendons and meridians."
71
樝子,《爾雅》云:「似梨而酢澀」。《埤雅》曰「木桃」。陶隱居《本草注》云:木瓜利筋脛。又有榠樝,大而黃,可進酒去痰。樝子澀,斷痢。《禮記》曰:「樝梨曰攢之」鄭公不識樝,乃云是「梨之不臧者」。雷公《炮炙論》「和圓子」即此也。李時珍曰:「樝子乃木瓜之酢澀者。小於木瓜,色微黃,蒂核皆粗;核中之子小圓也。」
Papeda: The Er Ya says, "It resembles a pear but is sour and astringent." The Biya calls it "Mutao." Tao Yinju's Bencao Zhu says: Muhua benefits the tendons and shins. There is also papeda, which is large and yellow; it can be used with wine to expel phlegm. Papeda fruit is astringent and effective in stopping dysentery. The Li Ji says: "Papeda and pears are called 'cuan.'" Duke Zheng did not recognize papeda, so he said it was simply "an inferior pear." Lei Gong's Paozhi Lun refers to "Heyuanyizi"—this is the same fruit. Li Shizhen said: "Papeda is simply muhua with a sour and astringent flavor." It is smaller than muhua, slightly yellow in color, with coarse stems and seeds; the seeds inside are small and round."
72
《淮南子》曰:「樹柤梨橘,食之則美,嗅之則香。」《莊子》曰:「樝、梨、橘、柚,皆可於口」者,蓋古人以樝列於名果,今人罕食之耳。西川唐鄧多種此,亦足濟用。然樝味比之梨與木瓜,雖為稍劣,而以之入蜜,作湯煎,則香美過之,亦可珍也。
The Huainan Zi says: "Plant papeda, pears, and oranges; eating them is delicious, smelling them is fragrant." The Zhuangzi says: "Papeda, pears, oranges, and pomelo are all pleasant to the mouth"—this indicates that ancient people ranked papeda among famous fruits; however, modern people rarely eat it. Xichuan, Tang, and Deng regions plant this fruit in abundance, which is sufficient to meet needs. However, compared to pears and muhua, the flavor of papeda is somewhat inferior; yet when used in honey-based syrups or decoctions, its fragrance and taste surpass them—thus it is also precious.
73
榠樝,《詩經》曰「木李」;《埤雅》曰「木梨」。鄭樵《通誌》曰「蠻樝」;《拾遺》曰「瘙樝」。李時珍曰:榠樝,乃木瓜之大而黃色無重蒂者也。
Papeda: The Shijing calls it "Muli"; the Biya refers to it as "Mulǐ." Zheng Qiao's Tong Zhi calls it "Manzha"; the Shiyi refers to it as "Saozha." Li Shizhen said: Papeda is a type of muhua that is larger, yellow in color, and lacks a double stem.
74
可浸酒去痰。置衣箱中,殺蠹蟲。
It can be used to soak wine and remove phlegm. Place it in a clothes chest, and it will kill moth insects.
75
榅桲,李時珍曰:即榠樝之生於北土者。蘇頌曰:今關陝有之;沙苑出者更佳。其實類樝,但膚慢而多毛,味尤甘。其氣芬馥,置衣笥中亦香。
Wenbo, Li Shizhen said: This is the same as Pippal, which grows in northern regions. Su Song said: Now there are some in Guanshan; those produced in Shayuan are even better. Its fruit resembles that of the loquat, but it has a softer skin with more hair and a particularly sweet taste. Its fragrance is rich and fragrant; placing it in a clothes chest also imparts a scent.
76
寇宗奭曰:食之須淨去浮毛;不爾損人肺。其果最多生蟲,少有不蛀者。
Kou Zongshi said: When eating it, one must thoroughly remove the floating hairs; otherwise, it will harm human lungs. Its fruit is most often infested with insects, and rarely has any that are not worm-eaten.
77
山樝,《爾雅》曰:朹子檕梅。又名赤瓜子,鼠樝,猴樝,茅樝,羊梂,棠梂子,山裏果。此物生於田原茅林中,猴鼠喜食之,故有諸名也。
Shanlou, the Er Ya says: Qiu zi jimei. It is also known as Chiguazi, Shulou, Houlou, Mao lou, Yangzhi, Tangzhizi, and Shanli guo. This plant grows in the meadows and bamboo forests; monkeys and rats like to eat it, hence its various names.
78
九月熟。取去皮核,搗和糖蜜,作為樝糕,以充果物。亦可入藥,令人少睡,有力,悅志。
It ripens in September. Remove the skin and stones, mash it with honey and sugar, make it into lou cake to serve as a fruit delicacy. It can also be used in medicine; it makes people sleep less, gives them strength, and pleases the mind.
79
甘蔗,《說文》曰:蔗也。或為竿蔗,或干蔗,或邯,或甘蔗,或都蔗,所在不同。《漢書》《離騷》俱作柘。有數種:曰杜蔗,即竹蔗。綠嫩薄皮,味極醇厚,專用作霜。曰白蔗,一名荻蔗,一名劣蔗,一名蠟蔗。可作糖,江東為勝。今江浙閩廣蜀川湖南所生,大者圍數寸,高丈許。又扶風蔗,一丈三節,見日則消,遇風則折。交阯蔗,長丈餘,取汁曝之,數日成飴,入口即消,彼人謂之石蜜。叢生,莖似竹,內實,直理,有節無枝。長者六七尺,短者三四尺。八九月收莖,可留至來年春夏。玄扈先生曰:甘蔗、糖蔗,是二種。
Gan zhe, The Shuowen Jiezi says: This is sugar cane. It may also be called Gangan zhe, Ganzhe, Han, Ganzhe, or Duzhe; the names vary depending on the region. Both the "Han Shu" and "Li Sao" refer to it as Zhe. There are several varieties: one is Du zhe, which is bamboo sugar cane. It has green tender thin skin and an extremely mellow flavor; it is specifically used to make frost (rock candy). There is also Bai zhe, also known as Di zhe, one name for Lue zhe, and another name for La zhe. It can be used to make sugar, with the best quality produced in Jiangdong. Nowadays, it is grown in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Min, Guangdong, Shu Chuan, and Hunan. The large ones have a circumference of several cun and are about one zhang tall. There is also Fufeng zhe, which has thirteen joints in a single zhang; it melts when exposed to the sun and breaks when met with wind. Jiaozhi zhe is more than one zhang long; extract its juice and expose it to the sun, and after several days it becomes maltose candy. It melts in the mouth immediately; people there call it Shimi (rock honey). It grows in clusters, with stems resembling bamboo. The interior is solid, the texture straight, and it has joints but no branches. The tall ones are six or seven chi long, while the short ones are three or four chi long. Harvest the stems in August and September; they can be stored until the following spring and summer. Xuanhu Xiansheng said: Gan zhe and Tang zhe are two different species.
80
《農桑輯要》曰:種法:用肥壯糞地。每歲春間,耕轉四遍,耕多更好。罷去柴草,使地淨熟,蓋下上頭。宜三月內下種,迤南暄熱,二月內亦得。每栽子一個,截長五寸許,有節者,中須帶三兩節。發芽於節上。畦寬一尺。下種處,微壅上高,兩邊低下。相離五寸,臥栽一根,覆土厚二寸。栽畢,用水繞澆,止令濕潤根脈,無致渰沒栽封。旱則二三日澆一遍;如雨水調勻,每一十日澆一遍。其苗高二尺餘,頻用水廣澆之,荒則鋤之。無不開花結子。直至九月霜後,品嘗稭稈:酸甜者,成熟;味苦者,未成熟。將成熟者,附根刈倒,依法即便煎熬。外將所留栽子稭稈,斬去虛梢。深厥窖坑,窖底用草襯藉,將稭稈豎立,收藏於上,用板蓋,土覆之,毋令透風及凍損。直至來春,依時出窖,截栽如前法。大抵栽種者,多用上半截,侭堪作種;其下截肥好者,留熬沙糖。若用肥好者作種,尤佳。
"Nongsang Jiyao" says: Planting method: use fertile, well-fertilized land. Each spring, plow and turn the soil four times; more plowing is even better. Remove weeds and branches to make the land clean and well-prepared, covering the upper part with soil. It is suitable to sow seeds within March; in warmer southern areas, sowing can also be done within February. For each planting piece, cut a section about five cun long with nodes; it must contain three or two joints in the middle. Buds sprout from the nodes. The ridge should be one chi wide. At the planting site, slightly mound up soil in the center to make it higher and keep both sides lower. Space them five cun apart; lay one root horizontally and cover with two cun of soil. After planting, water around the base to moisten the roots but avoid flooding or drowning the newly planted area. In dry weather, water once every two or three days; if rainfall is moderate and even, water once every ten days. When the seedlings grow more than two chi tall, frequently water them abundantly; if weeds appear, hoe them out. They will all flower and bear fruit. Not until after the frost in September should you taste the stalks: those with a sour-sweet flavor are ripe; those with a bitter taste are not yet mature. Cut down the mature ones close to the roots and proceed immediately with boiling according to the method. As for the stalks left as planting material, cut off the hollow tips. Dig deep pits for storage. Line the bottom of the pit with grass, place the stalks upright on top, cover them with a board and soil to prevent air from entering or freezing damage. Store it until next spring, then take it out at the appropriate time and cut and plant as before. Generally, when planting, people mostly use the upper half for propagation; the lower part that is thick and good can be reserved for making sand sugar. If you use the thick and high-quality parts as planting material, it will be even better.
81
煎熬法:若刈倒放十許日,即不中煎熬。將初刈倒稭稈,去梢葉,截長二寸,碓搗碎。用密筐或布袋盛頓,壓擠取汁。即用銅鍋,內斟酌多寡,以文武火煎熬。其鍋,隔牆安置,牆外燒火,無令煙火近鍋。專令一人看視,熬至稠粘,似黑棗合色。用瓦盆一⒐,底上鑽箸頭大竅眼一個;盆下,用甕承接。將熬成汁,用瓢豁於盆內。極好者,澄於盆;流於甕內者,止可調渴水飲用。將好者,止就用有竅眼盆盛頓;或倒在瓦罌內亦可。以物覆蓋之。食則從便,慎勿置於熱炕上。恐熱開花。大抵煎熬者,止取下截肥好者,有力糖多,若連上截用之,亦得。玄扈先生曰:熬糖法,未盡於此。
Boiling method: If cut stalks are left for about ten days, they become unsuitable for boiling. Take the freshly cut stalks, remove the tips and leaves, cut them into two-cun long pieces, and pound them to crush. Use a tight basket or cloth bag to hold it, press and squeeze out the juice. Immediately use a copper pot; adjust the amount inside according to need, and boil with moderate or strong fire. Place the pot on an insulated wall, burn the fire outside the wall, so that smoke and flames do not approach the pot directly. Assign one person to supervise; boil until it becomes thick and sticky, resembling the color of black dates. Use one clay basin (yi guan), drill a hole in its bottom the size of a chopstick head; place a jar underneath to collect. Pour the boiled juice into the basin with a ladle. The best quality will settle in the basin; what flows into the jar is only suitable for mixing with water to quench thirst. The good quality can be directly poured into a basin with the hole; or it may also be poured into a clay jar. Cover it with something. When consuming, do so at your convenience, but be careful not to place it on a hot kang (heated brick bed). Heat may cause it to bloom or spoil. Generally, when boiling, only the lower thick and good parts are used because they contain more sugar. If you use them together with the upper part, it is also acceptable. Xuanhu Xiansheng says: The method of boiling sugar is not fully explained here.
82
《家政法》曰:三月可種甘蔗。
"The Family Law" says: Sugarcane can be planted in March.
83
雩都縣,土壤肥沃,偏宜甘蔗,味及菜色,餘縣所無;一節數寸長,供獻御。
Yudu Xian has fertile soil, which is particularly suitable for growing sugarcane. Its taste and appearance are unmatched by other counties; each section can be several cun long and is offered as tribute to the imperial court.
URN: ctp:ws472201

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