| 中国哲学书电子化计划 维基 | |
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《卷九 Volume 9》[查看正文] [修改] [查看历史]
此文本已有对齐的英文翻译，可与原文并列显示。翻译显示：[不显示] [英文]《炙法第八十 Zhi Fa Di Baishi 》 | |
1  | 炙豚法： Method of Roasting Pork: |
| 2 | 用乳下豚极肥者，豶、牸俱得。击治一如煮法，揩洗、刮削，令极净。小开腹，去五藏，又净洗。以茅茹腹令满，柞木穿，缓火遥炙，急转勿住。转常使周匝，不匝则偏焦也。清酒数涂以发色。色足便止。取新猪膏极白净者，涂拭勿住。若无新猪膏，净麻油亦得。色同琥珀，又类真金。入口则消，状若凌雪，含浆膏润，特异凡常也。 Use a very fat piglet that is still nursing; either castrated males or females can be used. Prepare it just as in the boiling method, wiping and scrubbing to make it extremely clean. Make a small incision in the abdomen, remove the five internal organs, and wash again thoroughly. Fill the abdominal cavity completely with rush leaves, thread it on a zuo wood skewer, roast slowly over a distant fire, and rotate quickly without stopping. Always turn it evenly all around; otherwise, it will burn unevenly. Brush with several layers of clear wine to enhance the color. Stop when the color is sufficient. Use fresh, extremely white and clean lard; continuously apply and wipe it without stopping. If there is no fresh lard, pure sesame oil may also be used. The color resembles amber and is similar to real gold. It melts upon entering the mouth, like ice snow; it contains a juicy, greasy moisture and is especially different from ordinary food. |
| 3 | 捧炙：或作俸 Pengzhi: (or Fu) |
| 4 | 大牛用膂，小犊用脚肉亦得。逼火偏炙一面，色白便割；割遍又炙一面。含浆滑美。若四面俱熟然后割，则涩恶不中食也。 For a large ox, use the liu meat; for a young calf, the leg meat may also be used. Roast one side close to the fire until it turns white and then cut it; after cutting all pieces, roast the other side. It is juicy and smooth in flavor. If it is cut only after all four sides are cooked, it will become dry and unpleasant to eat. |
| 5 | 腩炙：腩，奴感切 Nan zhi: (nan, Nu Gan qie) |
| 6 | 羊、牛、麞、鹿肉皆得。方寸脔切。葱白研令碎，和盐、豉汁，仅令相淹。少时便炙，若汁多久渍，则肕。拨火开，痛逼火，回转急炙。色白热食，含浆滑美。若举而复下，下而复上，膏尽肉乾，不复中食。 The meat of sheep, oxen, gazelles, and deer can all be used. Cut into cubes measuring one cun on each side. Grind green onion whites until fine, mix with salt and fermented broad bean paste juice, just enough to soak the meat. Cook it after a short time; if marinated for too long in the sauce, it will become spoiled. Open the fire and roast close to it intensely, turning quickly over high heat. Eat while hot when the color is white; it is juicy and smooth in taste. If you repeatedly lift and lower it, or put it down and then back on again, the fat will be gone and the meat dried out, making it no longer fit to eat. |
| 7 | 肝炙： Liver Roast: |
| 8 | 牛、羊、猪肝皆得。脔长寸半，广五分，亦以葱、盐、豉汁腩之。以羊络肚𦠐素干反脂裹，横穿炙之。 The livers of oxen, sheep, and pigs can all be used. Cut into strips one cun long and five fen wide; marinate them with green onions, salt, and fermented broad bean paste as well. Wrap it in the fat of a sheep's stomach (Su Gan fan), thread it horizontally, and roast it. |
| 9 | 牛胘炙： Niu Hui Zhi: |
| 10 | 老牛胘，厚而脆。剗穿，痛蹙令聚，逼火急炙，令上劈裂，然后割之，则脆而甚美。若挽令舒申，微火遥炙，则薄而且肕。 The hui of an old ox is thick and crisp. Pierce it with a knife, press tightly to gather the meat together, roast quickly over high heat until cracks appear on top, then cut; this makes it crisp and very delicious. If stretched out flat and roasted slowly from a distance over low heat, it will become thin and soggy. |
| 11 | 灌肠法： Method of Making Stuffed Intestines: |
| 12 | 取羊盘肠，净洗治。细锉羊肉，令如笼肉，细切葱白，盐、豉汁、姜、椒末调和，令咸淡适口，以灌肠。两条夹而炙之。割食甚香美。 Take sheep's large intestine, clean and prepare it thoroughly. Finely mince mutton until it resembles caged meat, finely chop green onion whites, and mix with salt, fermented broad bean paste juice, ginger, and ground pepper to a taste that is appropriately salty or mild; use this mixture to stuff the intestines. Roast them by holding two strips together. It is very fragrant and delicious when cut to eat. |
| 13 | 《食经》曰作豉丸炙法： The "Shijing" says the method of making fermented broad bean paste meatballs for roasting: |
| 14 | 「羊肉十斤，猪肉十斤，缕切之，生姜三升，橘皮五叶，藏瓜二升，葱白五升，合擣，令如弹丸。别以五斤羊肉作臛，乃下丸炙煮之，作丸也。」 "Ten jin of mutton, ten jin of pork, cut into fine shreds; three sheng of fresh ginger, five leaves of tangerine peel, two sheng of preserved melon, and five sheng of green onion whites. Pound them all together until they form balls the size of a plum." Separately make a stew with five jin of mutton and then add the meatballs to cook them; this is how you prepare the meatballs." |
| 15 | 𦢸炙豘法： Method for Roasting Whole Piglets: |
| 16 | 小形豘一头，𦢸开，去骨，去厚处，安就薄处，令调。取肥猪肉三斤，肥鸭二斤，合细琢。鱼酱汁三合，琢葱白二升，姜一合，橘皮半合，和二种肉，著猪上，令调平。以竹丳丳之，相去二寸下丳。以竹箬著上，以板覆上，重物迮之。得一宿。明旦，微火炙。以蜜一升合和，时时刷之。黄赤色便熟。先以鸡子黄涂之，今世不复用也。 Take one small piglet, open it up, remove the bones and thick parts, arrange it to lie flat on the thinner sections so that it is even. Take three jin of fatty pork and two jin of fatty duck meat, grind them finely together. Mix three ge of fish sauce, two sheng of finely chopped green onion whites, one ge of ginger, and half a ge of tangerine peel with the two kinds of meat; spread it evenly over the piglet to make it level. Use bamboo skewers to pierce through, spacing each skewer two cun apart from the next one below. Place bamboo leaves on top, cover with a board, and press down with heavy objects. Leave it for one night. The next morning, roast over a low fire. Mix one sheng of honey and brush it on continuously. When it turns a yellowish-red color, it is done. Previously, people would first apply egg yolk before roasting; this method is no longer used in modern times. |
| 17 | 擣炙法： Method of Pound-Roasting: |
| 18 | 取肥子鹅肉二斤，锉之，不须细锉。好醋三合，瓜菹一合，葱白一合，姜、橘皮各半合，椒二十枚作屑，合和之，更锉令调。裹著充竹丳上。破鸡子十枚，别取白，先摩之令调，复以鸡子黄涂之。唯急火急炙之，使焦，汁出便熟。作一挺，用物如上；若多作，倍之。若无鹅，用肥豘亦得也。 Take two jin of fatty young goose meat, cut it into pieces; there is no need to mince it finely. Mix three ge of good vinegar, one ge of pickled melon, one ge of green onion whites, half a ge each of ginger and tangerine peel, and twenty peppercorns ground into powder; combine them all and chop again to mix evenly. Wrap the mixture and place it on bamboo skewers. Crack ten eggs, separately take the whites, first rub them to make a smooth mixture, then coat it with egg yolks. Roast quickly over high heat until charred; when the juice comes out, it is done. To make one skewer, use ingredients as described above; if making more, double the quantities accordingly. If there is no goose meat available, fatty pork can also be used instead. |
| 19 | 衔炙法： Method of Xianzhi: |
| 20 | 取极肥子鹅一头，净治，煮令半熟，去骨，锉之。和大豆酢五合，瓜菹三合，姜、橘皮各半合，切小蒜一合，鱼酱汁二合，椒数十粒作屑。合和，更锉令调。取好白鱼肉细琢，裹作丳，炙之。 Take one very fatty young goose, clean and prepare it, cook until half done, remove the bones, and chop it. Mix five ge of soybean vinegar, three ge of pickled melon slices, half a ge each of ginger and dried tangerine peel, one ge of finely chopped small garlic, two ge of fish sauce juice, and dozens of peppercorns ground into powder. Combine all ingredients and chop again until well mixed. Take fine white fish meat, grind it finely, wrap the mixture around a skewer, and roast it. |
| 21 | 作饼炙法： Method of Making Roasted Cakes: |
| 22 | 取好白鱼，净治，除骨取肉，琢得三升。熟猪肉肥者一升，细琢。酢五合，葱、瓜菹各二合，姜、橘皮各半合，鱼酱汁三合，看咸淡、多少，盐之适口。取足作饼，如升盏大，厚五分。熟油微火煎之，色赤便熟，可食。一本：「用椒十枚，作屑和之。」 Take good white fish, clean it thoroughly, remove the bones and take only the meat; grind three sheng of it. One sheng of fatty cooked pork, finely ground. Five ge of vinegar, two ge each of green onions and pickled melon, half a ge each of ginger slices and tangerine peel; three ge of fish sauce. Adjust the salt to taste according to how salty or mild it is. Take enough mixture to make cakes as large as a sheng cup, about five fen thick. Cook them gently over low heat with hot oil until they turn red; then they are done and can be eaten. Another version says: "Use ten peppercorns, grind them into powder and mix it in." |
| 23 | 酿炙白鱼法： Method of Fermented White Fish Roast: |
| 24 | 白鱼长二尺，净治，勿破腹。洗之竟，破背，以盐之。取肥子鸭一头，洗治，去骨，细锉；酢一升，瓜菹五合，鱼酱汁三合，姜、橘各一合，葱二合，豉汁一合，和，炙之令熟。合取从背、入著腹中，丳之如常炙鱼法，微火炙半熟，复以少苦酒杂鱼酱、豉汁，更刷鱼上，便成。 Take a white fish two chi long, clean it thoroughly without cutting open the abdomen. After washing it completely, cut along the back and season with salt. Take one fatty young duck, clean and prepare it by removing the bones, then finely chop; mix with one sheng of vinegar, five ge of pickled melon strips, three ge of fish sauce juice, one ge each of ginger and tangerines, two ge of green onions, and one ge of fermented broad bean paste. Combine everything and roast until cooked through. Combine the mixture, stuff it into the fish's body from the back as usual for roasting fish, skewer it normally. Roast over low heat until half cooked; then mix a little bitter wine with fish sauce and fermented broad bean paste, brush this mixture onto the fish again, and it is complete. |
| 25 | 腩炙法： Method of Nan Zhi: |
| 26 | 肥鸭，净治洗，去骨，作脔。酒五合，鱼酱汁五合，姜、葱、橘皮半合，豉汁五合，合和，渍一炊久，便中炙。子鹅作亦然。 Clean and prepare a fatty duck thoroughly, remove the bones, cut into cubes. Mix five ge of wine, five ge of fish sauce juice, half a ge each of fresh ginger and green onions and tangerine peel slices, and five ge of fermented broad bean paste; combine all ingredients. Marinate for the duration of one cooking session (approximately 30-45 minutes), then it is ready to roast. The same method can be used with young geese as well. |
| 27 | 猪肉鮓法： Method of Making Pork Paste: |
| 28 | 好肥猪肉作脔，盐令咸淡适口。以饭作糁，如作鮓法。看有酸气，便可食。 Cut good fatty pork into cubes and season with salt to a taste that is neither too salty nor too mild. Use rice as the base, following the method for making fish paste (zha). When it develops a slightly sour smell, it is ready to eat. |
| 29 | 啖炙： Dan Zhi: |
| 30 | 用鹅、鸭、羊、犊、麞、鹿、猪肉肥者，赤白半，细研熬之。以酸瓜菹、笋菹、姜、椒、橘皮、葱、胡芹细切、盐、豉汁，合和肉，丸之。手搦汝角切为寸半方，以羊、猪胳肚𦠐裹之。两歧簇两条簇炙之——簇两脔——令极熟。奠，四脔。牛、鸡肉不中用。 Use fatty meat from geese, ducks, sheep, calves, gazelles, deer, and pigs; mix equal parts red and white meat, grind it finely and cook it. Mix with finely chopped pickled sour melon, bamboo shoots, ginger, pepper, tangerine peel, green onions, coriander, salt, and fermented broad bean juice; combine everything with the meat to form balls. Shape into one-cun-half square pieces by hand (Ru Jiao qie), and wrap them in the stomach fat of sheep or pigs. Roast two skewers at a time—each with two pieces—until thoroughly cooked. Place four pieces as an offering (dian). Beef and chicken meat are not suitable for this dish. |
| 31 | 擣炙：一名「筒炙」，一名「黄炙」。 Daorui: (also known as "Tongzhi" and "Huangzhi") |
| 32 | 用鹅、鸭、麞、鹿、猪、羊肉。细研熬和调如「㗖炙」。若解离不成，与少面。竹筒六寸围，长三尺，削去青皮，节悉净去。以肉薄之，空下头，令手捉，炙之。欲熟，——小乾，不著手——竖塸中，以鸡鸭子白手灌之。若不均，可再上白。犹不平者，刀削之。更炙，白燥，与鸭子黄；若无，用鸡子黄，加少朱，助赤色。上黄用鸡鸭翅毛刷之。急手数转，缓则坏。既熟，浑脱，去两头，六寸断之。促奠二。若不即用，以芦荻苞之，束两头——布芦间可五分——可经三五日，不尔则坏。与面则味少，酢多则难著矣。 Use meat from geese, ducks, gazelles, deer, pigs, or sheep. Grind and cook the meat finely to make a mixture similar to "Dianzhi." If it does not hold together, add a little flour. Use bamboo tubes six cun in diameter and three chi long; strip off the green outer layer and remove all the nodes completely. Line the inside with a thin layer of meat, leave the bottom open so it can be held by hand, then roast it. When nearly cooked—slightly dry and not sticky to the touch—insert vertically into a stand, and pour in the whites of duck or goose eggs with your hands. If it is uneven, you may add more egg white again. If it remains uneven, trim it with a knife. Roast again until the egg white dries; then add duck egg yolk; if unavailable, use chicken egg yolk and add a little cinnabar to enhance the red color. Apply the yellow glaze using feathers from chicken or duck wings as brushes. Work quickly and turn it several times; if done slowly, it will be ruined. Once cooked through, remove the entire piece from the bamboo tube, cut off both ends, and slice it into six-cun sections. Place two pieces as a quick offering (cu dian). If not used immediately, wrap it in reeds or bulrushes and tie both ends—leave about five fen of space between the layers of reed wrapping—it can last three to five days; otherwise, it will spoil. Adding too much flour reduces the flavor, and using excessive vinegar makes it difficult for the ingredients to adhere properly. |
| 33 | 饼炙： Bingzhi: |
| 34 | 「用生鱼，白鱼最好，鮎、鳢不中用。下鱼片：离脊肋，仰捓几上，手按大头，以钝刀向尾割取肉，至皮即止。净洗，臼中熟舂之，勿令蒜气。与姜、椒、橘皮、盐、豉和。以竹木作圆范，格四寸面，油涂绢藉之。绢从格上下以装之，按令均平，手捉绢，倒饼膏油中煎之。出铛，及热置柈上，盌子底按之令拗。将奠，飜仰之。若盌子奠，仰与盌子相应。」又云：「用白肉、生鱼等分，细研熬和如上，手团作饼，膏油煎，如作鸡子饼。十字解奠之，还令相就如全奠。小者二寸半，奠二。葱、胡芹生物不得用，用则斑，可增。众物若是，先停此；若无，亦可用此物助诸物。」 "Use raw fish; white fish is the best, catfish and eel are not suitable. To slice the fish: remove it from the backbone and ribs, place it on a table with the belly side up, press down on the head with your hand, and use a blunt knife to cut toward the tail end; stop when you reach the skin. Wash thoroughly, then pound it in a mortar until smooth, making sure not to let any garlic odor remain. Mix with ginger, pepper, tangerine peel, salt, and fermented soybeans. Use bamboo or wooden round molds, each four cun in size; coat with oil and line them with silk cloth. Place the mixture into the mold lined with silk, press it evenly and flat; hold the silk cloth by hand and invert the mold to pour the dough into hot oil for frying. Remove from the wok while still hot, place it on a serving plate, and press down with the bottom of a bowl to shape it into a curved form. Before placing as an offering, turn it over so that the top side is facing up. "If using a bowl-shaped offering, place it with the curved surface upward to match the shape of the bowl." Another method says: "Use equal parts of white meat and raw fish, grind them finely as described above, mix thoroughly, shape into patties by hand, and fry in hot oil like making egg pancakes. Cut it into four equal parts diagonally to form an offering, then arrange the pieces back together as if they were a whole offering. Smaller ones are two and a half cun in size, place two for the offering. Leeks and coriander (trachyspermum ammi) should not be used as raw ingredients; if added, they will cause discoloration and may increase the risk of spoilage. This applies to other ingredients as well—set them aside first if available; if not, these ingredients can also be used to supplement others." |
| 35 | 范炙： Fan Zhi: |
| 36 | 用鹅、鸭臆肉。如浑，椎令骨碎。与姜、椒、橘皮、葱、胡芹、小蒜、盐、豉，切，和，涂肉，浑炙之。斫取臆肉，去骨，奠如白煮之者。 Use the breast meat of geese and ducks. If whole, pound it until the bones are crushed. Mix with ginger, pepper, tangerin peel, leeks, coriander, small garlic, salt, and fermented soy beans. Chop them up, mix well, apply the mixture to the meat, then roast it whole. Cut out the breast meat, remove the bones, and serve as an offering in the same way as boiled white meat. |
| 37 | 炙蚶： Zhi Can: |
| 38 | 铁䥟上炙之。汁出，去半壳，以小铜柈奠之。大，奠六；小，奠八。仰奠。别奠酢随之。 Roast it on an iron griddle. When the juice starts to come out, remove half of the shell and place it for offering on a small copper plate. Large ones: six as an offering; small ones: eight as an offering. Place it with the open side up for the offering. Serve vinegar separately as part of the offering. |
| 39 | 炙蛎： Zhi Li: |
| 40 | 似炙蚶。汁出，去半壳，三肉共奠。如蚶，别奠酢随之。 Similar to roasting clams (zhi can). When the juice comes out, remove half of the shell; place three pieces together as an offering. Like clams, serve vinegar separately for the offering. |
| 41 | 炙车熬： Zhi Cheao: |
| 42 | 炙如蛎。汁出，去半壳，去屎，三肉一壳。与姜、橘屑，重炙令暖。仰奠四，酢随之。勿太熟——则肕。 Roast as with oysters (zhi li). When the juice comes out, remove the half shell and the waste; serve three pieces of meat in one shell. Mix with ginger and tangerine peel shavings, then roast again until warm. Place four of them open-side up for the offering, with vinegar served separately. Do not overcook it—this will make it soft and unappetizing. |
| 43 | 炙鱼： Zhi Yu: |
| 44 | 用小𩼧、白鱼最胜。浑用。鳞治，刀细谨。无小用大，为方寸准，不谨。姜、橘、椒、葱、胡芹、小蒜、苏、欓，细切锻，盐、豉、酢和，以渍鱼。可经宿。炙时以杂香菜汁灌之。燥复与之，熟而止。色赤则好。双奠，不惟用一。 Use small carp or white fish, which are the best choices. Use them whole. Scale the fish carefully and clean it thoroughly with a knife. If small ones are unavailable, use large ones; cut them into one-cun square pieces as standard, but be careful not to be too hasty. Finely chop ginger, tangerine peel, pepper, leeks, coriander (trachyspernum ammi), small garlic, perilla leaves, and prickly ash; mix with salt, fermented soy beans, and vinegar to marinate the fish. It can be left overnight for marinating. When roasting, pour in juice made from a mixture of aromatic herbs. Repeat the process when it dries out; stop once it is cooked through. A red color indicates that it is well done. Offer two pieces at a time, not just one. |
《作𦞤、奥、糟、苞第八十一 Making of Zha, Ao, Cao, and Bao—Eighty-first Method 》 | |
| 1 | 作𦞤肉法： Method for Making Zha Meat: |
| 2 | 驴、马、猪肉皆得。腊月中作者良，经夏无虫；馀月作者，必须覆护，不密则虫生。粗脔肉，有骨者，合骨粗锉。盐、麴、麦䴷合和，多少量意斟裁，然须盐、麴二物等分，麦䴷倍少于麴。和讫，内瓮中，密泥封头，日曝之。二七日便熟。煮供朝夕食，可以当酱。 Meat from donkeys, horses, or pigs can all be used. Those made in the twelfth lunar month are best; they will not attract insects even through summer. Those made in other months must be covered and protected carefully, or else insects will appear if stored loosely. Cut the meat into coarse pieces; if there are bones, cut them together with the meat in large chunks. Mix salt, qu (fermented grain starter), and wheat bran. The quantities can be adjusted according to personal preference; however, the amounts of salt and qu should be equal, while the amount of wheat bran should be half that of qu. After mixing thoroughly, place it into a jar, seal the opening tightly with clay, and expose it to sunlight daily. It will be ready after two weeks (14 days). Boil and serve for morning or evening meals; it can be used as a substitute for soy sauce. |
| 3 | 作奥肉法： Method for Making Ao Meat: |
| 4 | 先养宿猪令肥，腊月中杀之。𢸧讫，以火烧之令黄，用暖水梳洗之，削刮令净，刳去五藏。猪肪煼取脂。肉脔方五六寸作，令皮肉相兼，著水令相淹渍，于釜中煼之。肉熟，水气尽，更以向所煼肪膏煮肉。大率脂一升，酒二升，盐三升，令脂没肉，缓火煮半日许乃佳。漉出瓮中，馀膏仍泻肉瓮中，令相淹渍。食时，水煮令熟，而调和之如常肉法。尤宜新韭「烂拌」。亦中炙啖。其二岁猪，肉未坚，烂坏不任作也。 First, raise and fatten the pig; slaughter it in the twelfth lunar month. After slaughtering, burn its surface with fire to turn it yellow; wash it thoroughly with warm water, scrape until clean, and remove the internal organs. Render fat from the pig's fatty tissue. Cut the meat into pieces measuring five to six cun on each side, ensuring that both skin and flesh are included. Soak them in water until they are fully submerged, then cook them in a pot over low heat. Once the meat is cooked and all moisture has evaporated, continue cooking by adding the previously rendered fat to braise the meat further. Generally, use one sheng of fat, two sheng of wine, and three sheng of salt; ensure the fat covers the meat completely. Cook over a low flame for about half a day to achieve best results. Strain out the meat and place it into jars; pour the remaining fat back over the meat in the jar, ensuring it is fully submerged. When eating, cook the meat by boiling it until tender and season it as you would regular meat. It is especially suitable for mixing with fresh chives in a "lan ban" (a type of stir-fried or mixed dish). It can also be grilled and eaten. Pigs that are only two years old have meat that is not yet firm; their meat tends to become too soft or spoil, making them unsuitable for this preparation. |
| 5 | 作糟肉法： Method for Making Cao Meat: |
| 6 | 春夏秋冬皆得作。以水和酒糟，搦之如粥，著盐令咸。内捧炙肉于糟中。著屋下阴地。饮酒食饭，皆炙啖之。暑月得十日不臭。 It can be made in all four seasons—spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Mix water with fermented grain residue (jiu cao) to form a porridge-like consistency; add salt until it is sufficiently salty. Place pieces of roasted meat into the mixture of fermented grain and water. Store it in a shaded, cool area under the house. When drinking alcohol or eating rice, roast and eat this meat as an accompaniment. In hot summer months, it can last up to ten days without spoiling. |
| 7 | 苞肉法： Method for Making Bao Meat: |
| 8 | 十二月中杀猪，经宿，汁尽浥浥时，割作捧炙形，茅、菅中苞之。无菅、茅，稻秆亦得。用厚泥封，勿令裂；裂复上泥。悬著屋外北阴中，得至七八月，如新杀肉。 Slaughter the pig in the twelfth lunar month; after it has been left overnight and the juices have dried slightly, cut it into pieces suitable for roasting. Wrap them in reeds or菅 grass (a type of sedge). If菅 or茅 are unavailable, rice straw can also be used. Seal it with thick clay and ensure no cracks form; if any cracks appear, apply more clay to cover them. Hang the wrapped meat in a shady northern area outside the house; it can remain fresh until July or August, as if freshly slaughtered. |
| 9 | 《食经》曰：作犬䐑徒摄反法： The "Shijing" says: Method for Making Dog Meat (tushè fǎ): |
| 10 | 犬肉三十斤，小麦六升，白酒六升，煮之令三沸。易汤，更以小麦、白酒各三升，煮令肉离骨，乃擘。鸡子三十枚著肉中。便裹肉，甑中蒸，令鸡子得乾。以石迮之。一宿出，可食。名曰『犬䐑』。 Take thirty catties of dog meat, six sheng of wheat, and six sheng of white wine; cook them until they have boiled three times. Change the broth, then add three sheng each of wheat and white wine again; cook until the meat separates from the bones, then tear it apart. Place thirty chicken eggs into the meat mixture. Wrap the meat and place it in a steamer; steam until the eggs become dry. Press it down with a stone. After one night, remove it and it will be ready to eat. It is called "Quan Shai." |
| 11 | 《食次》曰苞䐑法： The "Shicì" says: Method for Making Bao Shai: |
| 12 | 用牛、鹿头，肫蹄，白煮。柳叶细切，择去耳、口、鼻、舌，又去恶者，蒸之。别切猪蹄——蒸熟，方寸切——熟鸡鸭卵、姜、椒、橘皮、盐，就甑中和之。仍复蒸之，令极烂熟。一升肉，可与三鸭子，别复蒸令软。以苞之：用散茅为束附之，相连必致令裹。大如鞾雍，小如人脚𨄔肠。大，长二尺；小，长尺半。大木迮之，令平正，唯重为佳。冬则不入水。夏作，小者不迮，用小板挟之：一处与板两重，都有四板，以绳通体缠之，两头与楔楔苏结反之两板之间，楔宜长薄，令中交度，如楔车轴法，强打不容则止。悬井中，去水一尺许。若急待，内水中。用时去上白皮。名曰『水䐑』。」 又云：「用牛、猪肉，煮切之如上。蒸熟，出置白茅上，以熟煮鸡子白三重间之，即以茅苞，细绳穊束，以两小板挟之，急束两头，悬井水中。经一日许，方得。」 又云：「藿叶薄切，蒸。将熟，破生鸡子，并细切姜、橘，就甑中和之。蒸、苞如初，奠如『白䐑』——一名『迮䐑』是也。」 Use ox or deer heads, gizzards, and hooves; boil them in plain water. Cut the meat into thin slices like willow leaves, remove ears, mouth, nose, tongue, and any undesirable parts, then steam it. Separately cut pig hooves—steam them until cooked, then cut into one-inch cubes. Add cooked chicken or duck eggs, ginger, pepper, tangerine peel, and salt to the steamer and mix together. Steam again until it becomes very soft and thoroughly cooked. For every one sheng of meat, add three duck eggs; steam them separately until tender. To wrap it: Use loose茅 grass to bundle the mixture together, ensuring that each piece is tightly wrapped and connected. Make them as large as a boot's opening or as small as a human foot's length of intestine. Large ones should be two chi long; small ones, one and a half chi long. Press them with a large wooden weight to make them flat and even; the heavier the better. In winter, do not immerse them in water. In summer, for small pieces do not press them with a heavy weight; instead, use small wooden boards to sandwich the wrapped meat. Place one bundle between two boards, and in total have four boards. Wrap the entire bundle tightly with rope. Insert wedges (sujie fǎ) between each pair of boards. The wedges should be long and thin enough to fit through the center, similar to the method used for securing a cart axle. Drive them firmly until they can no longer be inserted further. Hang it in a well, about one chi above the water level. If you need to use it urgently, place it directly into the water. When using it, remove the white skin on top. It is called "Shui Shai." Another method says: "Use beef or pork, and cook and cut it as described above. Steam it until cooked, then remove and place it on white茅 grass. Insert three layers of beaten egg whites between the meat, wrap it with茅 grass, tie it tightly with fine ropes, sandwich it between two small wooden boards, secure both ends firmly, and hang it in well water. After about one day, it will be ready." Another method says: "Finely slice huoye and steam them. Just before it is fully cooked, crack raw eggs into the steamer, along with finely chopped ginger and tangerine peel; mix them in. Steam and wrap it as before, and place it like "Bai Shai"—this is also known as "Zhe Shai." |
《饼法第八十二 Method for Making Buns: The Eighty-Second Section 》 | |
| 1 | 《食经》曰：作饼酵法： The "Shijing" says: Method for Making Leavened Dough for Buns: |
| 2 | 酸浆一斗，煎取七升；用粳米一升著浆，迟下火，如作粥。 「六月时，溲一石面，著二升；冬时，著四升作。 Take one dou of sour broth, boil it down to seven sheng. Add one sheng of glutinous rice into the broth and simmer over low heat, like making porridge. "In June, mix one dan of flour with two sheng; in winter, use four sheng." |
| 3 | 作白饼法： Method for Making White Buns: |
| 4 | 面一石。白米七八升，作粥，以白酒六七升酵中，著火上。酒鱼眼沸，绞去滓，以和面。面起可作。 One dan of flour. Six to seven sheng or so of white rice, made into porridge; add six to seven sheng of white wine to the leavening mixture and place it over fire. When the liquid boils with fish-eye bubbles, strain out the residue and use it to mix with the flour. Once the dough rises, it is ready for shaping. |
| 5 | 作烧饼法： Method for Making Shao Bing (Burnt Buns): |
| 6 | 面一斗。羊肉二斤，葱白一合，豉汁及盐，熬令熟，炙之。面当令起。 One dou of flour. Two jin of mutton, one ge of green onion whites, fermented black bean juice and salt; cook until done, then roast it. The dough should be allowed to rise properly. |
| 7 | 髓饼法： Method for Making Sui Bing (Bone Marrow Buns): |
| 8 | 以髓脂、蜜，合和面。厚四五分，广六七寸。便著胡饼炉中，令熟。勿令反覆。饼肥美，可经久。 Mix bone marrow fat and honey with the dough. Make them about four to five fen thick, six to seven cun wide. Place the dough directly into a Hu Bing oven and bake until done. Do not flip them over during baking. The buns will be rich and delicious, and can last for a long time. |
| 9 | 《食次》曰：「粲：一名『乱积』。 "The 'Shicì' says: "Can: (also known as "Luanji")." |
| 10 | 用秫稻米，绢罗之。蜜和水，水蜜中半，以和米屑。厚薄令竹杓中下——先试，不下，更与水蜜。作竹杓：容一升许，其下节，穊作孔。竹杓中，下沥五升铛里，膏脂煮之。熟，三分之一铛中也。」 Use glutinous rice or indica rice, and sieve it through silk gauze. Mix honey with water in equal parts; use this to combine with the rice flour. Adjust the thickness and thinness so that it can be poured smoothly from a bamboo ladle—test first; if it does not flow, add more water and honey. Making the bamboo ladle: It should hold about one sheng, with small holes drilled in its lower section. Pour five sheng of liquid from the bamboo ladle into a pot and cook it over fat or oil. When cooked, it should fill one-third of the pot." |
| 11 | 膏环：一名「粔籹」 Gao Huan: (also known as "Jinlu") |
| 12 | 用秫稻米屑，水、蜜溲之，强泽如汤饼面。手搦团，可长八寸许，屈令两头相就，膏油煮之。 Use glutinous or indica rice flour, mix it with water and honey until the dough is firm and smooth, like soup noodle dough. Roll the dough into balls about eight cun long, then bend them so that both ends meet; cook in oil or fat. |
| 13 | 鸡鸭子饼： Chicken and Duck Egg Buns: |
| 14 | 破写瓯中，不与盐。锅铛中膏油煎之，令成团饼，厚二分。全奠一。 Crack the eggs into a small bowl, without adding salt. Fry them in oil or fat in a pot until they form round buns about two fen thick. Place one bun on the altar as an offering. |
| 15 | 细环饼、截饼：环饼一名「寒具」。截饼一名「蝎子」。 Thin Ring Buns, Cut Buns: (Ring buns are also known as "Hanju"). Cut buns are also called "Shezi." |
| 16 | 皆须以蜜调水溲面；若无蜜，煮枣取汁；牛羊脂膏亦得；用牛羊乳亦好，令饼美脆。截饼纯用乳溲者，入口即碎，脆如凌雪。 All of these require mixing flour with water and honey; if honey is unavailable, cook dates to extract their juice. Alternatively, use beef or mutton fat, which also works well. Using cow's or sheep's milk is even better, as it makes the buns delicious and crisp. Cut buns made purely with milk dough will crumble at the first bite, as crisp as ice or snow. |
| 17 | 餢𩜶：起面如上法。 Edu: (Prepare the risen dough according to the method above.) |
| 18 | 盘水中浸剂，于漆盘背上水作者，省脂，亦得十日软，然久停则坚。 乾剂于腕上手挽作，勿著勃。入脂浮出，即急飜，以杖周正之，但任其起，勿刺令穿。熟乃出之，一面白，一面赤，轮缘亦赤，软而可爱。久停亦不坚。若待熟始飜，杖刺作孔者，泄其润气，坚硬不好。法须瓮盛，湿布盖口，则常有润泽，甚佳。任意所便，滑而且美。 Soak the dough in a basin of water. If made on the back of a lacquered tray with water, it uses less fat and can remain soft for ten days; however, if left too long, it will become hard. Dry the dough on your wrist by stretching it with your hands, ensuring no flour sticks to it. When placed in the fat and it floats up, quickly flip it over with a spatula to shape it evenly. Let it rise naturally without piercing or tearing it. Once cooked, remove it; one side will be white and the other red, with a red rim around the edge—soft and lovely. Even if left for some time, it does not become hard. If you wait until it is fully cooked before flipping or poking holes in it with a spatula, the moisture will escape and the bun will become hard and unappetizing. The method requires storing them in a jar with a damp cloth covering the opening, which keeps them moist and very good. They can be eaten at one's convenience; they are smooth and delicious. |
| 19 | 水引、餺饨法： Method for Making Shuiyin, Huimin: |
| 20 | 细绢筛面，以成调肉臛汁，待冷溲之。 水引：挼如箸大，一尺一断，盘中盛水浸，宜以手临铛上，挼令薄如韭叶，逐沸煮。 Sift the flour through fine silk gauze; mix it with a seasoned meat broth and let it cool before kneading. Shuiyin: Roll the dough into strands as thick as chopsticks, cut them at one chi intervals. Soak in water in a bowl; when ready to cook, take it by hand near the pot and roll it out thinly like chive leaves, then drop it into boiling water and cook gradually. |
| 21 | 餺飥：挼如大指许，二寸一断，著水盆中浸，宜以手向盆旁挼使极薄，皆急火逐沸熟煮。非直光白可爱，亦自滑美殊常。 Huimin: Roll the dough into pieces about as thick as a thumb, cut them every two cun. Soak in a water basin; when ready to cook, roll it by hand along the side of the basin until very thin. Cook all of it over high heat with gradual boiling. Not only are they bright white and lovely, but they are also uniquely smooth and delicious compared to ordinary noodles. |
| 22 | 切面粥、一名綦子面𪌳卢货反面苏货反粥法： Method for Making Qimian Zou, (also known as "Qizi Mian") Luhuo Mian Suhuo Zou: |
| 23 | 刚溲面，揉令熟，大作剂，挼饼粗细如小指大。重萦于乾面中，更挼如粗箸大。截断，切作方碁。簸去勃，甑里蒸之。气馏，勃尽，下著阴地净席上，薄摊令冷，挼散，勿令相黏。袋盛，举置。须即汤煮，别作臛浇，坚而不泥。冬天一作得十日。 𪌳面：以粟饭饙，水浸，即漉著面中，以手向簸箕痛挼，令均如胡豆。拣取均者，熟蒸，曝乾。须即汤煮，笊篱漉出，别作臛浇，甚滑美。得一月日停。 Knead the dough firmly until it is smooth, form large pieces of dough, and roll them into strips as thick or thin as a small finger. Twist the strands repeatedly in dry flour, then roll them again to make them as thick as a coarse chopstick. Cut into pieces and shape them like square Go stones. Sift off the flour, then steam in a bamboo steamer. Once the steam has risen and all flour dust is gone, spread them out thinly on a clean mat in a cool, shaded area to cool down. Gently roll them apart so they do not stick together. Store them in bags and keep them ready for use. When needed, cook them in boiling water; serve with a separate seasoned broth poured over them. They will remain firm but not sticky. In winter, they can be stored for up to ten days. Luhuo Mian: Boil millet porridge, soak it in water, then drain and mix with the dough. Using your hands, thoroughly knead it into a sieve until evenly mixed like broad beans. Select even pieces, steam them well, and then dry them in the sun. When needed, cook in boiling water, strain out with a skimmer, serve with a separate seasoned sauce poured over them; they are very smooth and delicious. They can be stored for one month without spoiling. |
| 24 | 粉饼法： Method for Making Flour Cakes: |
| 25 | 以成调肉臛汁，接沸溲英粉，若用粗粉，脆而不美；不以汤溲，则生不中食。如环饼面，先刚溲，以手痛揉，令极软熟；更以臛汁溲，令极泽铄铄然。割取牛角，似匙面大，钻作六七小孔，仅容粗麻线。若作「水引」形者，更割牛角，开四五孔，仅容韭叶。取新帛细紬两段，各方尺半，依角大小，凿去中央，缀角著紬。以钻钻之，密缀勿令漏粉。用讫，洗，举，得二十年用。裹盛溲粉，敛四角，临沸汤上搦出，熟煮。臛浇。若著酪中及胡麻饮中者，真类玉色，稹稹著牙，与好面不殊。一名「搦饼」。著酪中者，直用白汤溲之，不须肉汁。 Use a seasoned meat broth to mix with flour until boiling hot. If coarse powder is used, the result will be crisp but not delicious; if no broth is added for kneading, it will remain raw and unfit for eating. Like ring-shaped cakes, first knead the dough firmly and thoroughly with your hands until it is very soft. Then mix in more seasoned broth until it becomes extremely smooth and glossy. Cut a cow's horn, about the size of a spoonful, and drill six or seven small holes just large enough to pass through coarse hemp thread. If making them in the shape of "Shuiyin," cut another cow's horn and drill four or five holes just wide enough to pass through chive leaves. Take two pieces of new fine silk cloth, each one and a half chi square; according to the size of the horn, cut out the center portion and attach the horns to the fabric. Drill through them carefully and sew tightly so that no flour leaks through. After use, wash it thoroughly and store properly; with proper care, it can last for twenty years of use. Wrap the dough mixture inside, gather up the four corners, and gently squeeze out excess before placing it into boiling water to cook until done. Serve with a seasoned sauce poured over. If added to yogurt or sesame drink, they truly resemble the color of jade and feel tender on the teeth, no different from high-quality noodles. Also known as "Nuo Bings." When used in yogurt, simply knead with plain boiling water; no meat broth is needed. |
| 26 | 豚肉饼法：一名「拨饼」。 Method for Making Pork Meat Cakes: (Also known as "Bo Bings.") |
| 27 | 汤溲粉，令如薄粥。大铛中煮汤；以小杓子挹粉著铜钵内，顿钵著沸汤中，以指急旋钵，令粉悉著钵中四畔。饼既成，仍挹钵倾饼著汤中，煮熟。令漉出，著冷水中。酷似豚皮。臛浇、麻、酪任意，滑而且美。 Mix flour with boiling water until it resembles thin porridge. Boil water in a large pot; use a small ladle to scoop the dough into a copper bowl, then place the bowl into the boiling water. Quickly swirl your finger around the inside of the bowl so that all the dough sticks evenly along the sides. Once the cake is formed, lift the bowl and pour the cake into the boiling water to cook it until done. Strain out the cake and place it in cold water. It looks very much like pork skin. Serve with seasoned sauce, sesame oil, or yogurt as desired; it is both smooth and delicious. |
| 28 | 治面砂墋初饮反法： Method for Making Sand Stone Noodles (Chuyin Fan): |
| 29 | 簸小麦，使无头角，水浸令液。漉出，去水，泻著面中，拌使均调。于布巾中良久挻动之，土末悉著麦，于面无损。一石面，用麦三升。 Sift the wheat to remove any coarse particles, then soak it in water until softened. Drain off the water and pour the soaked wheat into the flour mixture; mix thoroughly to ensure even blending. Knead it for a long time within a cloth wrap, allowing the fine soil particles to adhere completely to the wheat without damaging the flour. For every dan of flour, use three sheng of wheat. |
| 30 | 《杂五行书》曰：「十月亥日食饼，令人无病。」 The "Za Wu Xing Shu" states: "Eating cakes on the Hai day of the tenth month will keep a person free from illness." |
《糉䊦法第八十三 Method for Making Zongzi, Roll Eighty-Third》 | |
| 1 | 《风土记》注云：「俗先以二节一日，用菰叶裹黍米，以淳浓灰汁煮之，令烂熟，于五月五日、夏至啖之。黏黍一名『糉』，一曰『角黍』，盖取阴阳尚相裹未分散之时象也。」 The "Fengtu Ji" commentary states: "By custom, on the first day of the second lunar month, people wrap glutinous rice with leaves of water caltrop and cook them in concentrated ashes' liquid until soft. They are eaten on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month or at the summer solstice." Sticky millet, also known as "Zong," or "Jiaoshu," symbolizes the time when yin and yang are still wrapped together and have not yet dispersed. |
| 2 | 《食经》云粟黍法： The "Shijing" states the method for millet and sticky millet: |
| 3 | 先取稻，渍之使释。计二升米，以成粟一斗，著竹𥯕内，米一行，粟一行，裹，以绳缚。其绳相去寸所一行。须釜中煮，可炊十石米间，黍熟。 First, soak rice until it softens. For every two sheng of rice, use ten sheng of millet. Place them in a bamboo container, layering one row of rice and one row of millet alternately. Wrap it up and tie with string. Space the strings about an inch apart along each row. Cook it in a pot; it can be steamed together with ten dan of rice until the millet is fully cooked. |
| 4 | 《食次》曰䊦： The "Shicui" says about Zong: |
| 5 | 用秫稻米末，绢罗，水、蜜溲之，如强汤饼面。手搦之，令长尺馀，广二寸馀。四破，以枣、栗肉上下著之遍，与油涂竹箬裹之，烂蒸。奠二，箬不开，破去两头，解去束附。 Use powdered glutinous rice and millet, sifted through silk gauze. Mix with water and honey to form a dough as firm as thick soup noodle dough. Roll it by hand into strips over one chi long and more than two cun wide. Cut each strip into four pieces, then evenly place pieces of dates and chestnuts on both sides. Wrap them in greased bamboo leaves and steam until soft and tender. When serving, do not open the bamboo leaves; simply cut off both ends and remove the binding strings. |
《煮𥻩草片反，米屑也。或作根。第八十四 Boil "Pi" (caopian fan, which means rice flour or rice powder). 》 | |
| 1 | 煮𥺥： Boiling "Shi": |
| 2 | 《食次》曰：「宿客足，作𥺥籷苏革反𥺥米一升，以沸汤一升沃之；不用腻器。断箕漉出滓，以𥺥箒舂取勃。勃，别出一器中。折米白煮，取汁为白饮，以饮二升投𥺥汁。——又云：合勃下饮讫，出勃。𥺥汁复悉写釜中，与白饮合煮，令一沸，与盐。白饮不可过。——折米弱炊，令相著，盛饭瓯中，半奠，杓抑令偏著一边，以𥺥汁沃之，与勃。」 又云：「𥺥末以二升，小器中沸汤渍之。折米煮为饭，沸，取饭中汁升半。折箕漉𥺥出，以饮汁当向𥺥●汁上淋之，以𥺥箒舂取勃，出别勃置。复著折米渖汁为白饮，以𥺥汁投中。鲑奠如常，食之。」 又云：「若作仓卒难造者，得停西𥺥最胜。」 又云：「以勃少许投白饮中；勃若散坏，不得和白饮，但单用𥺥汁焉。」 The "Shicui" says: "For a guest staying overnight, take one sheng of Shi rice and pour over it one sheng of boiling water; do not use greasy utensils." Strain out the residue using a sieve, then use a Shi broom to pound and collect the flour dust. Place the flour dust into another separate container. Boil the white rice separately to extract its broth, making a clear drink; add two sheng of this broth into the Shi liquid. — It also says: After mixing in the flour and drinking it all, remove the remaining flour residue. Pour the Shi liquid back into a pot and combine it with the clear broth for cooking, bring to one boil, then add salt. Do not overcook the clear broth. — Cook the rice gently so that it clings slightly, place it into a bowl halfway full, use a ladle to press and tilt it toward one side, then pour in the Shi liquid along with the flour. It also says: "Take two sheng of Shi powder and soak it in boiling water within a small container." Cook the rice into porridge, bring to a boil, then take half a sheng of broth from the cooked rice. Strain out the Shi using a sieve, pour the rice broth over the top of the Shi liquid to filter it. Pound with a Shi broom to collect the flour dust and place it separately. Then mix the rice broth again into clear drink, adding the Shi liquid into it. Serve the dish as usual and eat it." It also says: "If time is short and preparation difficult, storing Xi Shi is the best option." It also says: "Add a small amount of flour dust to the clear broth; if the flour disperses and deteriorates, do not mix it with the clear broth—use only the Shi liquid." |
《醴酪第八十五 Lilao Eighty-Fifth Method 》 | |
| 1 | 煑醴酪： Boiling Lilao: |
| 2 | 昔介子推怨晋文公赏从亡之劳不及己，乃隐于介休县绵上山中。其门人怜之，悬书于公门。文公寤而求之，不获，乃以火焚山。推遂抱树而死。文公以绵上之地封之，以旌善人。于今介山林木，遥望尽黑，如火烧状，又有抱树之形。世世祠祀，颇有神验。百姓哀之，忌日为之断火，煮醴酪而食之，名曰「寒食」，盖清明节前一日是也。中国流行，遂为常俗。然麦粥自可御暑，不必要在寒食。世有能此粥者，聊复录耳。 In the past, Jie Zitui resented Duke Wen of Jin for not rewarding him along with those who had followed and escaped with him. As a result, he went into hiding in Mianshang Mountain in Jiexiu Xian. His disciples pitied him and posted a letter at the duke's gate. Duke Wen realized this, searched for Jie Zitui, but could not find him, so he ordered a fire to be set in the mountain. Jie Zitui thus embraced a tree and died in it. Duke Wen then granted the land of Mianshang to him, as a tribute to his virtue. To this day, the trees in Jieshan appear black from afar, resembling the aftermath of a fire, and there is also a shape that looks like someone embracing a tree. The people have honored him with ancestral worship through generations, and it has shown many miraculous effects. 龙头 The people mourned for him; on the anniversary of his death, they would stop using fire and instead boiled Lilao to eat. This was called "Hanshi," which is one day before Qingming Festival. This custom spread throughout China and became a common tradition. However, wheat porridge itself is sufficient to ward off the summer heat; it is not necessarily required for Hanshi. Those in later generations who were able to make this porridge are briefly recorded here. |
| 3 | 治釜令不渝法： Method for Preventing a Pot from Sticking: |
| 4 | 常于谙信处买取最初铸者，铁精不渝，轻利易燃。其渝黑难燃者，皆是铁滓钝浊所致。治令不渝法：以绳急束蒿，斩两头令齐。著水釜中，以乾牛屎燃釜，汤暖，以蒿三遍净洗。抒却水，乾燃使热。买肥猪肉脂合皮大如手者三四段，以脂处处遍揩拭釜，察作声。复著水痛疏洗，视汁黑如墨，抒却。更脂拭，疏洗。如是十遍许，汁清无复黑，乃止；则不复渝。煮杏酪，煮饧，煮地黄染，皆须先治釜，不尔则黑恶。 Always purchase the first cast pots made by trusted and experienced craftsmen; these are made of refined iron, do not stick easily, are light, sharp, and easy to heat. Those that turn black and are hard to ignite are all due to impure, dull iron dross. Method for Treating the Pot to Prevent Sticking: Tie green bamboo tightly with rope and cut both ends evenly. Place it in a pot of water, burn dry cow dung under the pot to warm the water, and use the bamboo brush to thoroughly clean the pot three times. Drain out the water and heat it until completely dry. Buy three or four pieces of large, fatty pork fat with the skin still attached, about the size of one's hand. Rub the fat all over the pot thoroughly and listen for a sound as you do so. Then add water again and scrub vigorously; when the liquid turns black like ink, drain it out. Repeat the process of rubbing with fat and thoroughly washing. Do this about ten times until the liquid becomes clear and no longer black; then stop. After that, it will not stick anymore. When boiling apricot milk, maltose syrup, or rehmannia dye, it is essential to first treat the pot; otherwise, the results will be dark and unattractive. |
| 5 | 煮醴法： Method for Boiling Lilao: |
| 6 | 与煮黑饧同。然须调其色泽，令汁味淳浓，赤色足者良。尤宜缓火，急则焦臭。传曰：「小人之交甘若醴」，疑谓此，非醴酒也。 It is the same as boiling black maltose. However, it is necessary to adjust its color and luster so that the liquid has a rich flavor and deep red hue; this indicates good quality. It is especially suitable for slow fire; if heated too quickly, it will become burnt and emit an unpleasant odor. The Classic says: "The friendship of small men is sweet as lilao," which might refer to this substance, not the fermented rice wine called li. |
| 7 | 煮杏酪粥法： Method for Boiling Apricot Milk Porridge: |
| 8 | 用宿穬麦，其春种者则不中。预前一月，事麦折令精，细簸拣。作五六等，必使别均调，勿令粗细相杂，其大如胡豆者，粗细正得所。曝令极乾。如上治釜讫，先煮一釜粗粥，然后净洗用之。打取杏人，以汤脱去黄皮，熟研，以水和之，绢滤取汁。汁唯淳浓便美，水多则味薄。用乾牛粪燃火，先煮杏人汁，数沸，上作豚脑皱，然后下穬麦米。唯须缓火，以匕徐徐搅之，勿令住。煮令极熟，刚淖得所，然后出之。预前多买新瓦盆子容受二斗者，抒粥著盆子中，仰头勿盖。粥色白如凝脂，米粒有类青玉。停至四月八日亦不动。渝釜令粥黑，火急则焦苦，旧盆则不渗水，覆盖则解离。其大盆盛者，数卷居万反亦生水也。 Use overnight-soaked rye; the spring-sown variety is not suitable. One month in advance, prepare the wheat by crushing it finely and carefully winnowing and selecting it. Sort it into five or six grades, ensuring each grade is uniform and well-mixed; do not allow coarse and fine particles to be mixed together. Those the size of broad beans are just right in terms of coarseness and fineness. Dry it thoroughly in the sun. After treating the pot as described above, first boil a pot of coarse porridge, then clean and use it. Beat the apricots to extract their flesh, remove the yellow skin with hot water, grind them thoroughly until soft, mix with water, and strain through a silk cloth to obtain the juice. The more concentrated the juice, the better; too much water will dilute the flavor. Burn dry cow dung to make a fire, first boil the apricot juice until it boils several times and forms a wrinkled layer on top like pig brain, then add the rye grains. Only use slow fire, stir gently with a ladle continuously without stopping. Cook until it is extremely tender and has the right consistency of softness before removing it from the pot. Prepare in advance several new clay pots that can hold two dou, pour the porridge into them, and leave the pots uncovered. The porridge should be white like solidified fat, with rice grains resembling green jade in color. It will remain undisturbed even if left until the eighth day of the fourth month. If the pot sticks, the porridge will turn black; if the fire is too strong, it becomes burnt and bitter. Using an old clay pot prevents water from seeping in, but covering it causes separation. For the large pots that hold more porridge, several days (Juwan) will also result in water forming on top. |
《飧饭第八十六 Eighth Section: Meals and Rice 》 | |
| 1 | 作粟飧法： lords Method for Making Millet Porridge: |
| 2 | 𦥥米欲细而不碎。碎则浊而不美。𦥥讫即炊。经宿则涩。淘必宜净。十遍以上弥佳。香浆和暖水浸饙，少时，以手挼，无令有块。复小停，然后壮。凡停饙，冬宜久，夏少时，盖以人意消息之。若不停饙，则饭坚也。投飧时，先调浆令甜酢适口，下热饭于浆中，尖出便止。宜少时住，勿使挠搅，待其自解散，然后捞盛，飧便滑美。若下饭即搅，令饭涩。 The millet should be ground fine but not crushed into powder. If it is too crushed, the porridge will become cloudy and unattractive. Cook immediately after grinding. If left overnight, it will become stale and unpleasant. It must be thoroughly rinsed. Rinsing it ten times or more is even better. Soak the millet in warm water mixed with fragrant broth, for a short while, then knead it by hand to ensure there are no lumps. Let it rest briefly again before cooking thoroughly. Generally, when soaking the millet porridge, in winter it should be soaked longer and in summer for a shorter time; this is adjusted according to personal judgment. If not soaked properly, the rice will become hard. When adding the porridge, first adjust the broth to be sweet and sour in a balanced taste. Add hot rice into the broth until it just begins to rise to the surface, then stop. Let it rest for a short time without stirring; allow it to disperse naturally, then scoop and serve. The porridge will be smooth and delicious. If you stir the rice immediately after adding it, the result will be dry and unpleasant. |
| 3 | 折粟米法： Method for Crushing Millet: |
| 4 | 取香美好谷脱粟米一石，勿令有碎杂。于木槽内，以汤淘，脚踏；泻去渖，更踏；如此十遍，隐约有七斗米在，便止。漉出，曝乾。炊时，又净淘。下饙时，于大盆中多著冷水，必令冷彻米心，以手挼饙，良久停之。折米坚实，必须弱炊故也，不停则硬。投饭调浆，一如上法。粒似青玉，滑而且美。又甚坚实，竟日不饥。弱炊作酪粥者，美于粳米。 Take one dan of fragrant, high-quality millet grains (do not allow any broken or mixed grains). Place it in a wooden trough, rinse with hot water and tread on it by foot; drain the liquid away, then tread again. Repeat this process ten times until approximately seven dou of millet remain, then stop. Strain out the mixture and dry it thoroughly in the sun. Before cooking, rinse it again thoroughly. When adding the porridge to cook, place a large amount of cold water in a big pot; ensure it is thoroughly cold and reaches the center of the millet. Knead the porridge by hand for a long time, then let it rest. The crushed millet is firm and must be cooked gently; if not rested, it will remain hard. Add the rice and adjust the broth as described above. The grains resemble green jade, smooth and delicious. They are also very firm and can keep one from feeling hungry all day long. Porridge made by gentle cooking is more delicious than that made with glutinous rice. |
| 5 | 作寒食浆法： Method for Making Cold Food Broth: |
| 6 | 以三月中清明前，夜炊饭，鸡向鸣，下熟热饭于瓮中，以向满为限。数日后便酢，中饮。因家常炊次，三四日辄以新炊饭一椀酘之。每取浆，随多少即新汲冷水添之。讫夏，飧浆并不败而常满，所以为异。以二升，得解水一升，水冷清俊，有殊于凡。 In the third lunar month, before Qingming Festival, cook rice at night. When the rooster crows in the morning, put hot cooked rice into a jar until it is nearly full. After several days, it will sour and become suitable for drinking. During regular home cooking, every three or four days add a bowl of freshly cooked rice to it. Each time you take some broth, add an equal amount of newly drawn cold water immediately. By the end of summer, the porridge and broth remain undeteriorated and always full—this is what makes it special. From two sheng of this, one can obtain one sheng of clear, cold water that is especially excellent and different from ordinary water. |
| 7 | 令夏月饭瓮、井口边无虫法： Method to Prevent Insects Around Rice Jars and Well Mouths in Summer: |
| 8 | 清明节前二日夜，鸡鸣时，炊黍熟，取釜汤遍洗井口、瓮边地，则无马蚿，百虫不近井、瓮矣。甚是神验。 Two nights before the Qingming Festival, at the time when the rooster crows, cook millet until it is done. Take hot water from the pot and thoroughly wash around the well mouth and the area near the jars; this will prevent centipedes and other insects from approaching the well or jars. This method has proven to be very effective. |
| 9 | 治旱稻赤米令饭白法： Method for Making White Rice from Dry Rice Red Grains: |
| 10 | 莫问冬夏，常以热汤浸米，一食久，然后以手挼之。汤冷，泻去，即以冷水淘汰，挼取白乃止。饭色洁白，无异清流之米。 又，𦥥赤稻一臼，米里著蒿叶一把，白盐一把，合𦥥之，即绝白。 Regardless of winter or summer, always soak the rice in hot water for a long enough time before cooking, then knead it with your hands. When the water cools down, drain it off and rinse repeatedly with cold water until only white grains remain. The rice will be clean and white, no different from high-quality clear-flowing water rice. Additionally, when grinding one quail of red rice, add a handful of wormwood leaves and a handful of white salt together with the rice; this will result in extremely white grains. |
| 11 | 《食经》曰作面饭法： The "Shijing" says: Method for Making Noodles: |
| 12 | 用面五升，先乾蒸，搅使冷。用水一升。留一升面，减水三合；以七合水，溲四升面，以手擘解。以饭，一升面粉粉乾下。稍切取，大如栗颗。讫，蒸熟。下著节中，更蒸之。 Use five sheng of flour, first steam it dry, then stir until it cools down. Use one sheng of water. Reserve one sheng of flour and reduce the water by three ge; use seven ge of water to knead four sheng of flour, then tear it apart with your hands. Use one sheng of dry flour and sprinkle it over the dough before shaping into noodles. Cut them slightly, making each piece about the size of a chestnut kernel. Once done, steam until fully cooked. Place them in a steaming basket and steam again. |
| 13 | 作粳米糗糒法： Method for Making Glutinous Rice Flour and Dried Rice Cakes: |
| 14 | 取粳米，汰洒，作饭，曝令燥。擣细，磨，粗细作两种折。 Take glutinous rice, rinse it thoroughly, cook into rice, then dry it in the sun until completely dried. Pound it finely and grind it; separate it into two types of coarseness. |
| 15 | 粳米枣糒法： Method for Making Glutinous Rice and Date Dried Cakes: |
| 16 | 炊饭熟烂，曝令乾，细筛。用枣蒸熟，迮取膏，溲糒。率一升糒，用枣一升。 Cook the rice until it is soft, dry it in the sun thoroughly, then sift it finely. Use steamed dates to extract their paste and mix it with the dried rice flour. Generally, for every one sheng of dried rice flour, use one sheng of dates. |
| 17 | 崔寔曰：「五月多作糒，以供出入之粮。」 Cui Shi said: "In the fifth month, make a lot of dried cakes to provide for food on journeys in and out." |
| 18 | 菰米饭法： Method for Making Water Chestnut Rice: |
| 19 | 菰谷盛韦囊中；擣瓷器为屑，勿令作末，内韦囊中令满，板上揉之取米。一作可用升半。炊如稻米。 Place the water chestnut grains into a leather bag; crush porcelain ware into flakes, but do not make it into powder. Fill the leather bag with these flakes and rub on a board to extract the rice. One method can yield about one and a half sheng. Cook it like regular rice. |
| 20 | 胡饭法： Method for Making Hu Rice: |
| 21 | 以酢瓜菹长切，脟炙肥肉，生杂菜，内饼中急卷。卷用两卷，三截，还令相就，并六断，长不过二寸。别奠「飘兖」随之。细切胡芹、蓼下酢中为「飘兖」。 Cut sour gourd pickle into long strips, roast slices of fatty meat, add raw mixed vegetables, and quickly roll them inside a flatbread. Roll it into two layers, cut it into three sections, then fold the pieces together so they align and form six segments, each no longer than two cun. Serve with "Piao Yuan" separately as an accompaniment. Finely chop Hu qin and knotweed, then add them to vinegar to make "Piao Yuan." |
| 22 | 《食次》曰：「折米饭：生折，用冷水，用虽好，作甚难。蒯苦怪反米饭。〈蒯者，背洗米令净也。」 The "Shicui" says: "Crushed rice porridge: When using raw crushed grains, cold water must be used. Although the ingredients are good, it is very difficult to prepare." Kuai (Kuiguai) rice porridge. (Kuai means to thoroughly rinse the rice until it is clean.) |
《素食第八十七 Section Eighty-Seven: Vegetarian Dishes 》 | |
| 1 | 《食次》曰葱韭羹法： The "Shicui" says, Method for Scallion and Leek Soup: |
| 2 | 下油水中煮葱、韭——五分切，沸俱下。与胡芹、盐、豉、研米糁——粒大如粟米。 Cut scallions and leeks into five-part lengths, then add them all at once to boiling oil water. Add Hu qin, salt, fermented broad beans, and ground rice porridge—rice grains as large as millet. |
| 3 | 瓠羹： Gourd Soup: |
| 4 | 下油水中煮极熟——瓠体横切，厚三分，沸而下。与盐、豉、胡芹。累奠之。 Add to oil water and cook until very tender—cut gourds crosswise into slices three fen thick, then add when the water is boiling. Add salt, fermented broad beans, and Hu qin. Serve them in succession as accompaniments. |
| 5 | 油豉： Oily Fermented Broad Beans: |
| 6 | 豉三合，油一升，酢五升，姜、橘皮、葱、胡芹、盐，合和，蒸。蒸熟，更以油五升，就气上洒之。讫，即合甑覆泻瓮中。 Mix three ge of fermented broad beans, one sheng of oil, five sheng of vinegar, ginger, tangerine peel, scallions, Hu qin, and salt. Combine all ingredients and steam them together. After steaming until tender, add five sheng of oil on top while the dish is still hot and steaming. Once done, transfer it into a sealed clay jar with a lid. |
| 7 | 膏煎紫菜： Steamed Purple Seaweed in Fat: |
| 8 | 以燥菜下油中煎之，可食则止。擘奠如脯。 Put dried seaweed into oil and fry it until edible. Stop when done. Serve it in pieces, like meat slices. |
| 9 | 薤白蒸： Steamed Allium Fistulosum: |
| 10 | 秫米一石，熟舂𦥥，令米毛，不𣼬。先击反以豉三升煮之，𣼬箕漉取汁，用沃米，令上谐可走虾。米释，漉出——停米豉中，夏可半日，冬可一日，出米。葱、薤等寸切，令得一石许，胡芹寸切，令得一升许，油五升，合和蒸之，可分为两甑蒸之。气馏，以豉汁五升洒之。凡三过三洒，可经一炊久。三洒豉汁，半熟，更以油五升洒之，即下。用热食。若不即食，重蒸，取气出。洒油之后，不得停竈上；则漏去油。重蒸不宜久，久亦漏油。奠讫，以椒、姜末粉溲之。甑亦然。 One dan of shu rice, pounded and ground until the grains are broken into powder but not over-processed. First, cook three sheng of fermented broad beans in water, strain the liquid through a sieve to extract the broth, and use it to soak the rice until the mixture is suitable for steaming. Drain the soaked rice—leave it in the fermented broad bean liquid, where it should sit for about half a day in summer and one full day in winter before removing the rice. Cut scallions and Allium fistulosum into one-cun pieces, enough to make about one dan; cut Hu qin into one-cun slices, enough for about one sheng. Mix with five sheng of oil and steam together—this can be divided into two steaming vessels for cooking. When the vapor rises, sprinkle five sheng of fermented broad bean broth over it. Repeat this process three times—three sprinklings in total—and let it steam for about one cooking period (approximately the time needed to cook a pot of rice). After three sprinklings of fermented broad bean broth, when it is half-cooked, add five sheng more oil and continue steaming until done. Serve hot. If not eaten immediately, re-steam it to release the steam and heat again. After adding oil, do not leave the dish on the stove for too long; otherwise, the oil will drain away. Do not re-steam it for a long time either, as prolonged steaming also causes the oil to drain out. After serving, mix with powdered Sichuan pepper and ground ginger. The same applies to the steaming vessel. |
| 11 | 𦢦音苏托饭： Susu (Su) Tuofan Rice: |
| 12 | 托二斗，水一石。熬白米三升，令黄黑，合托，三沸。绢漉取汁，澄清，以𦢦一升投中。无𦢦，与油二升，𦢦托好。一升，次「檀托」，一名「托中价」。 Two dou of tuofan, one dan of water. Boil three sheng of white rice until it turns yellowish-black, then combine with the tuofan and bring to a boil three times. Strain through silk cloth to extract the liquid, let it settle until clear, then add one sheng of tuofan into it. If there is no tuofan, substitute with two sheng of oil; the result will still be good. One sheng is called "Tantu," also known as "Tuozhongjia." |
| 13 | 蜜姜： Honey Ginger: |
| 14 | 生姜一斤，净洗，刮去皮，笇子切，不患长，大如细漆箸。以水二升，煮令沸，去沫。与蜜二升煮，复令沸，更去沫。椀子盛，合汁减半奠；用箸，二人共。无生姜，用乾姜，法如前，唯切欲极细。 Take one jin of fresh ginger, wash it thoroughly, peel off the skin, and cut into thin strips. The length does not matter, but they should be as thick as a fine lacquer chopstick. Boil two sheng of water until it comes to a boil and skim off the foam. Add two sheng of honey and cook again, bringing it back to a boil, then remove the scum once more. Serve in small bowls with half the liquid; use chopsticks, shared by two people. If fresh ginger is unavailable, use dried ginger instead, following the same method, but cut it as finely as possible. |
| 15 | 缹瓜瓠法： Method for Steaming Gourds: |
| 16 | 冬瓜、越冬、瓠，用毛未脱者，毛脱即坚。汉瓜用极大饶肉者，皆削去皮，作方脔，广一寸，长三寸。偏宜猪肉，肥羊肉亦佳；肉须别煮令熟，薄切。苏油亦好。特宜菘菜。芜菁、肥葵、韭等皆得。苏油，宜大用苋菜。细擘葱白，葱白欲得多于菜。无葱，薤白代之。浑豉、白盐、椒末。先布菜于铜铛底，次肉，无肉以苏油代之。次瓜，次瓠，次葱白、盐、豉、椒末，如是次第重布，向满为限。少下水，仅令相淹渍。缹令熟。 Use winter melon, Yue Dong (a type of gourd), or bottle gourd with the fine hair still on them—once the hairs fall off, they become tough. For Han melon (a type of gourd or squash), choose the largest and most fleshy ones. Peel them, cut into square slices one cun wide and three cun long. They pair well with pork; fatty lamb is also good. The meat must be cooked separately until tender and then thinly sliced. Susu oil (a type of clarified butter or fat) is also excellent. It pairs particularly well with bok choy (tall Chinese cabbage). Wujing, fukui, and leeks can also be used. When using Susu oil, it is especially suitable to add amaranth leaves in large quantities. Finely chop the white part of scallions—the amount of scallion should be more than that of vegetables. If there are no scallions, substitute with Allium fistulosum (white part). Use whole fermented broad beans, white salt, and powdered Sichuan pepper. First spread the vegetables at the bottom of a copper pot, then add the meat—use Susu oil instead if there is no meat. Then layer gourds, then bottle gourds, followed by scallion whites, salt, whole fermented broad beans, and powdered pepper. Repeat this sequence in layers until the pot is nearly full. Add a small amount of water—just enough to cover and soak the ingredients slightly. Steam until tender. |
| 17 | 又缹汉瓜法： Another Method for Steaming Han Melon: |
| 18 | 直以香酱、葱白、麻油缹之。勿下水亦好。 Simply steam it with fragrant soy sauce, scallion whites, and sesame oil. It is also good without adding water. |
| 19 | 缹菌其殒反法： Method for Steaming Mushrooms: |
| 20 | 菌，一名「地鸡」，口未开，内外全白者佳；其口开里黑者，臭不堪食。其多取欲经冬者，收取，盐汁洗去土，蒸令气馏，下著屋北阴乾之。当时随食者，取即汤煠去腥气，擘破。先细切葱白，和麻油，苏亦好。熬令香；复多擘葱白，浑豉、盐、椒末，与菌俱下，缹之。宜肥羊肉；鸡、猪肉亦得。肉缹者，不须苏油。肉亦先熟煮，薄切，重重布之如「缹瓜瓠法」，唯不著菜也。 缹瓜瓠、菌，虽有肉、素两法，然此物多充素食，故附素条中。 Mushrooms, also known as "Diji," are best when the cap is still closed and both inside and outside are completely white. Those with open caps and dark interiors have a foul smell and should not be eaten. When collecting in large quantities, prefer those that have been through winter. Wash them with brine to remove the dirt, steam until vapor rises, then spread them out under a north-facing eave of the house and let them air-dry in the shade. For those to be eaten fresh, briefly blanch them in boiling water to remove any fishy smell and then break them apart. First finely chop the scallion whites and mix with sesame oil—Susu oil is also good. Stir-fry until fragrant; then add more chopped scallion whites, whole fermented broad beans, salt, and powdered pepper along with the mushrooms, and steam them together. It pairs well with fatty lamb; chicken or pork can also be used. If meat is being steamed, Susu oil is not necessary. The meat should also be pre-cooked until tender and thinly sliced, then layered as in the "Steaming Gourd Method," but without adding vegetables. Although steamed gourds and mushrooms can be prepared with either meat or as vegetarian dishes, these items are often used in vegetarian meals, so they are included here under the vegetarian section. |
| 21 | 缹茄子法： Method for Steaming Eggplant: |
| 22 | 用子未成者，子成则不好也。以竹刀骨刀四破之，用铁则渝黑。汤煠去腥气。细切葱白，熬油令香；苏弥好。香酱清、擘葱白与茄子俱下，缹令熟。下椒、姜末。 Use eggplants that have not yet developed seeds—those with matured seeds are not good. Cut the eggplant into four pieces using a bamboo or bone knife—using an iron knife will cause it to turn black. Blanch in boiling water briefly to remove any fishy odor. Finely chop scallion whites and stir-fry the oil until fragrant—Susu is even better. Add clear soy sauce, chopped scallions, and eggplant together, then steam until tender. Sprinkle with Sichuan pepper powder and ground ginger. |
《作菹、藏生菜法第八十八 Section Eighty-Eight: Methods for Making Pickles and Preserving Fresh Vegetables 》 | |
| 1 | 芜菁、菘、葵、蜀芥咸𦵔法： Method for Salting Wujing, Bok Choy, Fuki, and Shu Jie: |
| 2 | 收菜时，即择取好者，菅、蒲束之。作盐水，令极咸，于盐水中洗菜，即内瓮中。若先用淡水洗者，𦵔烂。其洗菜盐水，澄取清者，泻著瓮中，令没菜把即止，不复调和。𦵔色仍青，以水洗去咸汁，煮为茹，与生菜不殊。 其芜菁、蜀芥二种，三日抒出之。粉黍米，作粥清；擣麦面䴷作末，绢筛。布菜一行，以䴷末薄坌之，即下热粥清。重重如此，以满瓮为限。其布菜法：每行必茎叶颠倒安之。旧盐汁还泻瓮中。𦵔色黄而味美。 作淡𦵔，用黍米粥清，及麦䴷末，味亦胜。 When harvesting vegetables, immediately select the best ones and bundle them with reeds or rush. Prepare brine that is extremely salty; wash the vegetables in this salt water, then place them into a jar. If washed first with fresh water, they will rot and become spoiled. The brine used to wash the vegetables should be clarified, then poured into the jar until it covers the bundled vegetables—stop there and do not stir or mix further. The pickled vegetables will remain green; wash them with water to remove the saltiness, then cook as a vegetable dish. They are no different from fresh vegetables in taste and texture. For wujing and Shu jie, remove them after three days. Grind yellow millet into powder to make a clear porridge; pound wheat flour into fine powder and sift it through silk cloth. Arrange one row of vegetables, sprinkle the flour powder thinly over them, then pour in hot clear porridge broth. Repeat this layering process until the jar is full. The method of arranging vegetables: each row must be placed with stems and leaves inverted to ensure even coverage. Pour the old brine back into the jar as well. The pickled vegetables turn yellow and have a delicious flavor. To make lightly salted pickles, use millet porridge broth and wheat flour powder; the taste is also excellent. |
| 3 | 作汤𦵔法： Method for making soup pickles: |
| 4 | 菘菜佳，芜菁亦得。收好菜，择讫，即于热汤中煠出之。若菜已萎者，水洗，漉出，经宿生之，然后汤煠。煠讫，冷水中濯之，盐、醋中。熬胡麻油著，香而且脆。多作者，亦得至春不败。 Bok choy is best, but wujing can also be used. loyd Choose the best vegetables, wash them thoroughly, and blanch them in hot soup immediately. If the vegetables have already wilted, rinse them with water, drain them out, and let them sit overnight to revive before blanching in soup. After blanching, rinse the vegetables in cold water and place them into a mixture of salt and vinegar. If you fry with sesame oil, they will be fragrant and crisp. When made in large quantities, these pickles can last until spring without spoiling. |
| 5 | 䖆𦵔法： Method for making suancai (fermented vegetables): |
| 6 | 𦵔，菜也。一曰：𦵔不切曰「䖆𦵔」。用乾蔓菁，正月中作。以热汤浸菜冷柔软，解辫，择治，净洗。沸汤煠，即出，于水中净洗，复作盐水暂度，出著箔上。经宿，菜色生好。粉黍米粥清，亦用绢筛麦䴷末，浇𦵔布菜，如前法；然后粥清不用大热。其汁才令相淹，不用过多。泥头七日，便熟。𦵔瓮以穰茹之，如酿酒法。 Ncai is a type of vegetable. One definition: pickled vegetables that are not cut into pieces are called "Su ncai." Use dried wujing (turnip) and prepare it in the first lunar month. Soak the vegetables in hot water until they become soft, untie them from their bundles, sort and clean them thoroughly. Blanch in boiling water, then immediately remove and rinse thoroughly in cold water; next, briefly soak them in salted water before placing them on a mat to dry. After one night, the vegetables will regain their fresh appearance. Grind yellow millet into a clear porridge, and also use silk-sifted wheat flour powder. Pour the mixture over the vegetables as described in the previous method; however, the porridge broth should not be too hot this time. The brine should only just cover the vegetables—do not use an excessive amount. Seal the jar with mud for seven days, and it will be ready to eat. Line the pickle jar with straw as in the method of making wine. |
| 7 | 作卒𦵔法： Method for making quick pickles: |
| 8 | 以酢浆煮葵菜，擘之，下酢，即成𦵔矣。 Boil chives or similar greens in vinegar broth, tear them apart, add more vinegar, and they become pickled immediately. |
| 9 | 藏生菜法： Method for preserving fresh vegetables: |
| 10 | 九月、十月中，于墙南日阳中掘作坑，深四五尺。取杂菜，种别布之，一行菜，一行土，去坎一尺许，便止。以穰厚覆之，得经冬。须即取，粲然与夏菜不殊。 In the ninth and tenth lunar months, dig a pit in the sunny side of a wall facing south. The pit should be four to five chi deep. Take various vegetables, arrange them in rows by type; one row of vegetables followed by a row of soil. Stop when you are about one chi away from the edge of the pit. Cover it thickly with straw, and the vegetables can be preserved through winter. When needed, take them out immediately; they will remain fresh and indistinguishable from summer vegetables. |
| 11 | 《食经》作葵𦵔法： The "Shijing" method for making chive pickles: |
| 12 | 「择燥葵五斛，盐二斗，水五斗，大麦乾饭四斗，合濑：案葵一行，盐、饭一行，清水浇满。七日黄，便成矣。」 "Select five hu of dry chives, two dou of salt, five dou of water, and four dou of dried barley rice. Mix them thoroughly: arrange one row of chives, then a row of salt and rice; pour clear water to fill the jar completely." After seven days they will turn yellow, and thus be ready. |
| 13 | 作菘咸𦵔法：水四斗，盐三升，搅之，令杀菜。又法：菘一行，女麴间之。 Method for making bok choy salted pickles: four dou of water, three sheng of salt; stir well to brine the vegetables. Another method: arrange one row of bok choy and intersperse it with nüqu (a type of fermented grain). |
| 14 | 作酢𦵔法：三石瓮。用米一斗，擣，搅取汁三升；煮滓作三升粥。令内菜瓮中，辄以生渍汁及粥灌之。一宿，以青蒿、薤白各一行，作麻沸汤，浇之，便成。 Method for making vinegar pickles: use a three-shi jar. Use one dou of rice, pound it and extract three sheng of juice; cook the residue into three sheng of porridge. Place the vegetables in the jar, then pour fresh brine and porridge over them to soak. After one night, arrange a row of green mugwort and a row of scallion bulbs; make a rolling hot broth and pour it over them. It will then be ready. |
| 15 | 作𦵔消法：用羊肉二十斤，肥猪肉十斤，缕切之。𦵔二升，𦵔根五升，豉汁七升半，切葱头五升。 Method for making meat pickles: use twenty jin of mutton and ten jin of fatty pork, finely cut them. Two sheng of pickled vegetables, five sheng of pickle roots, seven and a half sheng of fermented black bean juice, and five sheng of chopped scallion bulbs. |
| 16 | 蒲𦵔： Pucai: |
| 17 | 《诗义疏》曰：「蒲，深蒲也。《周礼》以为𦵔。谓蒲始生，取其中心入地者，蒻，大如匕柄，正白，生啖之，甘脆；又煮，以苦酒浸之，如食笋法，大美。今吴人以为𦵔，又以为酢。」 The "Shi Yishu" says, "Pu refers to deep water reeds. "The Zhou Li" considers it as cai." It refers to the young shoots of reeds, which grow from their center and extend underground. These are called ruo. They are as thick as a spoon handle, pure white in color, and when eaten raw they have a sweet and crisp flavor; alternatively, boil them and soak them in vinegar, following the method used for bamboo shoots—they taste excellent. Nowadays, people from Wu consider it as cai or use it to make vinegar." |
| 18 | 世人作葵𦵔不好，皆由葵大脆故也。𦵔菘，以社前二十日种之；葵，社前三十日种之。使葵至藏，皆欲生花乃佳耳。葵经十朝苦霜，乃采之。秫米为饭，令冷。取葵著瓮中，以向饭沃之。欲令色黄，煮小麦时时粣桑葛反之。 崔寔曰：「九月，作葵𦵔。其岁温，即待十月。」 The reason why people often fail to make good chive pickles is because the chives are too mature and tender. To pickle bok choy, plant it twenty days before Shangsi Festival; for chives, plant them thirty days before the festival. For both vegetables to be best preserved until storage, they should ideally begin to flower. Chives should only be harvested after enduring ten days of bitter frost. Cook shu rice into rice, and let it cool down. Place the chives in a jar and pour the cooled rice over them. To make the color turn yellow, when boiling wheat, stir it frequently (pinyin: bì). Cui Shi said, "In the ninth month, make chive pickles. If the year is warm, wait until October." |
| 19 | 《食经》藏瓜法： "Shijing" method for preserving melons: |
| 20 | 取白米一斗，䥶中熬之，以作糜。下盐，使咸淡适口，调寒热。熟拭瓜，以投其中，密涂瓮。此蜀人方，美好。又法：取小瓜百枚，豉五升，盐三升。破，去瓜子，以盐布瓜片中，次著瓮中，绵其口。三日豉气尽，可食之。 Take one dou of white rice, roast it in a pan and make porridge. Add salt so that the taste is neither too salty nor too bland, adjusting to a comfortable temperature. Wipe the melons clean and place them in it; seal the jar tightly. This is a method from Shu people, and it produces excellent results. Another method: take one hundred small melons, five sheng of fermented black beans, and three sheng of salt. Cut them open, remove the seeds, place salt between the melon slices, then put them in a jar and seal it tightly. After three days, when the fermented bean aroma has fully infused, they can be eaten. |
| 21 | 《食经》藏越瓜法： "Shijing" method for preserving yue melons: |
| 22 | 「糟一斗，盐三升，淹瓜三宿。出，以布拭之，复淹如此。凡瓜欲得完，慎勿伤，伤便烂，以布囊就取之，佳。豫章郡人晚种越瓜，所以味亦异。」 "One dou of bran, three sheng of salt—soak the melons in it for three nights. Remove them, wipe with cloth, and soak again as before." In general, melons should remain intact; be careful not to damage them, for any injury will cause rot. It is best to pick them using a cloth bag to avoid bruising. "The people of YuZhang Jun plant yue melons late, so their flavor is also different." |
| 23 | 《食经》藏梅瓜法： "Shijing" method for preserving mei gua: |
| 24 | 「先取霜下老白冬瓜，削去皮，取肉方正薄切如手板。细施灰，罗瓜著上，复以灰覆之。煮杬皮、乌梅汁著器中。细切瓜，令方三分，长二寸，熟煠之，以投梅汁。数日可食。以醋石榴子著中，并佳也。」 "First, select mature white winter melons that have been exposed to frost. Peel them and cut the flesh into thin, square slices like a hand tablet. Sprinkle fine ash over it, place the melon pieces on top, then cover them with more ash. Boil yun peels and plum juice in a container. Cut the melon into small cubes, three fen wide and two cun long; blanch them thoroughly before adding to the plum juice. They can be eaten after several days. Adding pomegranate seeds and vinegar to the mixture is also excellent." |
| 25 | 《食经》曰乐安令徐肃藏瓜法： The "Shijing" records that Xu Su, a former Lianan Ling (magistrate of Le'an), had a method for preserving melons: |
| 26 | 取越瓜细者，不操拭，勿使近水，盐之令咸。十日许，出，拭之，小阴乾熇之，仍内著盆中。作和法：以三升赤小豆，三升秫米，并炒之，令黄，合舂，以三斗好酒解之。以瓜投中，密涂。乃经年不败。 Select small yue gua, do not wash or wipe them, and keep them away from water; salt them until they are sufficiently salty. After about ten days, remove them, wipe clean, slightly air-dry and roast them lightly, then place them back into a basin. Method for making hefa: take three sheng of red adzuki beans and three sheng of shu rice, stir-fry them until golden yellow. Pound them together, then mix with three dou of good wine to make a paste. Place the melons into it and seal the container tightly. This way, they will remain unspoiled for an entire year. |
| 27 | 崔寔曰：「大暑后六日，可藏瓜。」 Cui Shi said: "Six days after the Great Heat solar term, melons can be preserved." |
| 28 | 《食次》曰女麴： The "Shicì" says about nüqu: |
| 29 | 秫稻米三斗，净淅，炊为饭——软炊。停令极冷，以麴范中用手饼之。以青蒿上下奄之，置床上，如作麦麴法。三七二十一日，开看，遍有黄衣则止。三七日无衣，乃停，要须衣遍乃止。出，日中曝之。燥则用。」 Three dou of shu or rice, thoroughly rinsed and steamed into soft sticky rice. Let it cool completely; then use your hands to press the rice in a mold (qu fan) into cakes. Cover both top and bottom with green mugwort, place it on a bed, following the method for making wheat qu. After three periods of seven days (a total of twenty-one days), open and check; when it is fully covered with a yellow coat, the process is complete. If after three periods (twenty-one days) there is still no yellow coating, stop; it must have a full yellow coat before stopping. Remove them and dry them in the sun. They are ready for use when thoroughly dried." |
| 30 | 酿瓜𦵔酒法： Method for fermenting melon pickle wine: |
| 31 | 秫稻米一石，麦麴成锉隆隆二斗，女麴成锉平一斗。酿法：须消化，复以五升米酘之；消化，复以五升米酘之。再酘酒熟，则用，不迮出。瓜，盐揩，日中曝令皱，盐和暴糟中停三宿，度内女麴酒中为佳。 One shi of shu or rice; two dou of coarsely ground wheat qu, and one dou of coarsely ground nüqu. Fermentation method: when the mixture begins to ferment, add another five sheng of rice; once it ferments again, add a further five sheng of rice. After adding the rice twice and the wine is fully matured, it can be used without pressing out the liquid. For melons: rub them with salt, dry them in the sun until they wrinkle. Mix them with brine and let them rest for three nights; then add them to the nüqu wine for best results. |
| 32 | 瓜𦵔法： Method of making pickled melon: |
| 33 | 采越瓜，刀子割；摘取，勿令伤皮。盐揩数遍，日曝令皱。先取四月白酒糟盐和，藏之。数日，又过著大酒糟中，盐、蜜、女麴和糟，又藏泥𤭛中，唯久佳。」又云：「不入白酒糟亦得。」又云：「大酒接出清，用醅，若一石，与盐三升，女麴三升，蜜三升。女麴曝令燥，手拃令解，浑用。女麴者，麦黄衣也。」又云：「瓜净洗，令燥，盐揩之。以盐和酒糟，令有盐味，不须多，合藏之，密泥𤭛口。软而黄，便可食。大者六破，小者四破，五寸断之，广狭尽瓜之形。」又云：「长四寸，广一寸。仰奠四片。瓜用小而直者，不可用喎。」 Harvest the yue gourds, cut them with a knife; pluck them carefully without damaging their skin. Rub them several times with salt and dry them in the sun until wrinkled. First, take the lees from April white wine, mix it with salt, and store it. After several days, transfer them into a large amount of wine lees. Mix with salt, honey, and nüqu together with the lees; then store them in clay jars—longer storage is better." It also says: "It is also acceptable not to use white wine lees." It further says: "Take the clear liquid from a large batch of wine, use the mash. For one shi (unit), add three sheng of salt, three sheng of nüqu, and three sheng of honey." Dry the nüqu in the sun until it is dry; then crush it by hand into pieces and use it as a whole mixture. Nvqu refers to the yellow mold grown on wheat." It also says: "Wash the melons thoroughly, let them dry, and then rub them with salt. Mix with brine and wine lees so that it has a salty flavor, but not too much. Combine them for storage, sealing the jar mouth tightly with clay. When soft and yellow in color, it is ready to eat. Cut large melons into six pieces and small ones into four; cut them in five-inch lengths, with width and narrowness according to the shape of the melon." It also says: "Four cun long, one cun wide. Place four slices upright in a row. Use small and straight melons; do not use those that are crooked." |
| 34 | 瓜芥𦵔： Pickled mustard greens with melon: |
| 35 | 用冬瓜，切长三寸，广一寸，厚二分。芥子，少与胡芹子，合熟研，去滓，与好酢，盐之，下瓜。唯久益佳也。 Use winter melons, cut into pieces three cun long, one cun broad, and two fen thick. Mustard seeds, mixed with a small amount of coriander seeds, are ground together until smooth. Strain out the residue and mix it with good vinegar and salt; then add the melon pieces. The longer it is stored, the better it becomes. |
| 36 | 汤𦵔法： Method for making soup pickle: |
| 37 | 用少菘、芜菁，去根，暂经沸汤，及热与盐、酢。浑长者，依杯截。与酢，并和菜汁；不尔，太酢。满奠之。 Use a small amount of gai lan (Chinese kale) and turnip, remove the roots, briefly blanch them in boiling water. While still hot, add salt and vinegar. For long vegetables, cut them according to the size of a cup. Mix with vinegar and vegetable juice; otherwise, it will be too sour. Fill the container completely. |
| 38 | 苦笋紫菜𦵔法： Method for pickling bitter bamboo shoots and purple laver: |
| 39 | 笋去皮，三寸断之，细缕切之；小者手捉小头，刀削大头，唯细薄，随置水中。削讫，漉出，细切紫菜和之。与盐、酢、乳。用半奠。紫菜，冷水渍，少久自解。但洗时勿用汤，汤洗则失味矣。 Remove the skin from the bamboo shoots, cut them into three-cun lengths, and finely slice them. For small ones, hold the smaller end with your hand and use a knife to shave off the larger end; make it as thin and delicate as possible, then place it in water. After peeling, drain them out, finely cut the purple laver, and mix with the bamboo shoots. Add salt, vinegar, and curdled milk (fermented dairy product). Fill the container halfway. Purple laver: soak in cold water, and it will soften on its own after a short time. However, do not use hot water when washing; using hot water will cause the flavor to be lost. |
| 40 | 竹菜𦵔法： Method for pickling bamboo shoots: |
| 41 | 菜生竹林下，似芹，科大而茎叶细，生极穊。净洗，暂经沸汤，速出，下冷水中，既搦去水，细切。又胡芹、小蒜，亦暂经沸汤，细切，和之。与盐、醋。半奠。春用至四月。 This vegetable grows under the bamboo grove, resembling coriander. It has large clusters but thin stems and leaves, growing very densely. Wash it thoroughly, briefly blanch in boiling water, then quickly remove and place into cold water. After squeezing out the moisture, cut it finely. Also take coriander and small garlic; briefly blanch them in boiling water as well, then finely chop and mix together. Add salt and vinegar. Fill the container halfway. This is used from spring until April. |
| 42 | 蕺𦵔法： Method for pickling fish腥 grass (Houttuynia cordata): |
| 43 | 蕺去土、毛、黑恶者，不洗，暂经沸汤即出。多少与盐。一升，以暖米清渖汁净洗之，及暖即出，漉下盐、酢中。若不及热，则赤坏之。又，汤撩葱白，即入冷水，漉出，置蕺中，并寸切，用米。若椀子奠，去蕺节，料理接奠，各在一边，令满。 Remove the dirt, hair, and any black or spoiled parts from the蕺; do not wash it. Briefly blanch in boiling water and immediately remove. Add salt according to quantity. For one sheng, rinse it with warm rice-washing water until clean; remove as soon as it is warmed, and drain into a mixture of salt and vinegar. If not done while still hot, the蕺 will turn red and spoil. Also, briefly blanch scallion whites in boiling water, immediately transfer to cold water, drain out, and place them with the蕺. Cut both into one-cun pieces and use rice. If using a bowl for storage, remove the蕺 joints; prepare each separately and place them on opposite sides in the container until full. |
| 44 | 菘根𣙥𦵔法： Method for pickling Chinese kale roots: |
| 45 | 菘，净洗遍体，须长切，方如算子，长三寸许。束根，入沸汤，小停出，及热与盐、酢。细缕切橘皮和之。料理，半奠之。 Wash the gai lan thoroughly, cut it into long strips shaped like counting rods, about three cun in length. Bundle the roots together and put them into boiling water; after a brief soak, remove them while still hot and immediately add salt and vinegar. Finely slice tangerine peel and mix it in. Prepare the mixture, filling the container halfway. |
| 46 | 熯呼干反𦵔法： Method for pickling hàn (Huanggan) vegetables: |
| 47 | 净洗，缕切三寸长许，束为小把，大如筚篥。暂经沸汤，速出之，及热与盐、酢，上加胡芹子与之。料理令直，满奠之。 Wash thoroughly, cut into strips about three cun long. Bundle them into small handfuls the size of a bili (a type of reed flute). Briefly blanch in boiling water, quickly remove while still hot. Add salt and vinegar immediately; then sprinkle coriander seeds on top. Arrange the vegetables neatly and fill the container completely. |
| 48 | 胡芹小蒜𦵔法： Method for pickling coriander, small garlic: |
| 49 | 并暂经小沸汤出，下冷水中，出之。胡芹细切，小蒜寸切，与盐、酢。分半奠，青白各在一边。若不各在一边，不即入于水中，则黄坏，满奠。 Briefly blanch both in slightly boiling water and quickly remove them, then place into cold water before taking out. Finely chop the coriander; cut the small garlic into one-cun pieces, and add salt and vinegar. Fill half of the container with each ingredient, placing green (coriander) and white (garlic) on opposite sides. If they are not placed separately on either side, or if they are not immediately put into water, they will turn yellow and spoil; fill the container completely. |
| 50 | 菘根萝卜𦵔法： Method for pickling Chinese kale root and radish: |
| 51 | 净洗通体，细切长缕，束为把，大如十张纸卷。暂经沸汤即出，多与盐，二升暖汤合把手按之。又，细缕切，暂经沸汤，与橘皮和，及暖与则黄坏。料理满奠。熅菘、葱、芜菁根悉可用。 Wash the entire vegetable thoroughly, cut into long thin strips. Bundle them together in small handfuls as thick as a roll of ten sheets of paper. Briefly blanch in boiling water then immediately remove, add plenty of salt, and press with both hands using two sheng of warm water. Also, cut into fine strips, briefly blanch in boiling water; mix with tangerine peel. If not done while still warm, it will turn yellow and spoil. Prepare the mixture and fill the container completely. All of these can be used: gai lan, scallions, and turnip roots. |
| 52 | 紫菜𦵔法： Method for pickling purple laver: |
| 53 | 取紫菜，冷水渍令释，与葱𦵔合盛，各在一边，与盐、酢。满奠。 Take the purple laver and soak it in cold water until softened. Mix with pickled scallions, placing each on opposite sides of the container; add salt and vinegar. Fill the container completely. |
| 54 | 蜜姜法： Method for honey ginger: |
| 55 | 用生姜，净洗，削治，十月酒糟中藏之。泥头十日，熟。出，水洗，内蜜中。大者中解，小者浑用。竖奠四。」又云：「卒作：削治，蜜中煮之，亦可用。 Use fresh ginger, wash it thoroughly and peel it; store it in the wine lees of October. Seal the top with clay for ten days until it is ripe. Remove, rinse in water, and place into honey. Cut large pieces in half; use small ones whole. Place four upright slices in the container." It also says: "For quick preparation: peel and cook it directly in honey; this can also be used. |
| 56 | 梅瓜法： Method for preserving plum melon: |
| 57 | 用大冬瓜，去皮、穰，𥫫子细切，长三寸，粗细如研饼。生布薄绞去汁，即下杬汁，令小暖。经宿，漉出。煮一升乌梅，与水二升，取一升馀，出梅，令汁清澄。与蜜三升，杬汁三升，生橘二十枚——去皮核取汁——复和之，合煮两沸，去上沫，清澄令冷。内瓜讫，与石榴酸者、悬钩子、廉姜屑。石榴、悬钩，一杯可下十度。皮尝看，若不大涩，杬子汁至一升。」又云：「乌梅渍汁淘奠。石榴、悬钩，一奠不过五六。煮熟，去粗皮。杬一升，与水三升，煮取升半，澄清。 Use large winter melons, remove the skin and pulp. Cut the flesh into fine pieces three cun long and as thick or thin as a ground cake (yansheng). Squeeze out the juice using a fine cloth, then immediately add tangerine juice and let it warm slightly. After one night, drain it out. Boil one sheng of black plums with two sheng of water; reduce to about one sheng, remove the plums and let the juice settle until clear. Add three sheng of honey, three sheng of tangerine juice, and twenty fresh oranges—remove the peel and seeds to extract the juice—and mix them together. Boil twice until it boils over, skim off the foam on top, let it settle and cool down. After adding the melon, add pomegranate juice (sour type), lonicera berries, and ground ginger. Pomegranate and lonicera: one cup can be used up to ten times. Taste the rind occasionally; if it is not too astringent, add tangerine seed juice up to one sheng." It also says: "Soak in black plum juice and pour into the container. Pomegranate, lonicera—do not use more than five or six per jar. Cook until tender and remove the coarse skin. Take one sheng of tangerines, add three sheng of water, boil to reduce by half a sheng, and let it settle until clear. |
| 58 | 梨𦵔法： Method for preserving pears: |
| 59 | 先作漤卢感反：用小梨，瓶中水渍，泥头，自秋至春。至冬中，须亦可用。——又云：一月日可用。——将用，去皮，通体薄切，奠之，以梨漤汁，投少蜜，令甜酢。以泥封之。若卒作，切梨如上，五梨半用苦酒二升，汤二升，合和之，温令少热，下，盛。一奠五六片，汁沃上，至半。以篸置杯旁。夏停不过五日。又云：卒作，煮枣亦可用之。 First make lai (lai, pronounced "lu gan fan"): use small pears, soak them in water inside a jar, seal the top with mud, and leave from autumn until spring. By mid-winter, they can also be used. —It is also said: it can be used on the first day of each month. —When using, peel and thinly slice the entire fruit, place it in a container, add pear lai juice, stir in a little honey to make it sweet and sour. Seal it with mud. If making in a hurry, slice the pears as above; for every five pears, use two sheng of vinegar and two sheng of hot water. Mix them together, warm slightly until just warm, then pour over the pears and store. Place five or six slices in one jar, pour juice over them until halfway full. Place a chopstick beside the cup. In summer, it should not be left for more than five days. 藟 It is also said: if made in a hurry, cooked jujubes can also be used instead. |
| 60 | 木耳𦵔：取枣、桑、榆、柳树边生犹软湿者，乾即不中用。柞木耳亦得。煮五沸，去腥汁，出置冷水中，净洮。又著酢浆水中，洗出，细缕切。讫，胡荽、葱白，少著，取香而已。下豉汁、酱清及酢，调和适口，下姜、椒末。甚滑美。 Preserved wood ear fungus: collect those growing on jujube, mulberry, elm, and willow trees that are still soft and moist—dry ones cannot be used. Wood ear fungus from zha trees can also be used.}} Boil five times, remove the fishy juice, take them out and place in cold water to rinse thoroughly. Then soak in sour broth water, wash them out, and cut into fine strips. After that, add coriander and green onions—in small amounts, just for fragrance.}} Add fermented soybean juice, clear sauce, and vinegar to season it appropriately, then add ginger and ground pepper. It is very smooth and delicious. |
| 61 | 𦼫𦵔法：《毛诗》曰：「薄言采芑。」毛云：「菜也。」《诗义疏》曰：「𦼫，似苦菜，茎青；摘去叶，白汁出。甘脆可食，亦可为茹。青州谓之『芑』。西河、雁门𦼫尤美，时人恋恋，不能出塞。」 Method for preserving qǐ: The Mao Shi says, "Thinly speak of picking qǐ." Mao says: "It is a vegetable." The Shi Yi Shu says: "Qǐ resembles bitter mustard, with green stems; when the leaves are plucked, white sap oozes out. It is sweet and crisp to eat, and can also be used as a vegetable dish." In Qingzhou it is called "qǐ". "The qǐ from Xhe and Yanmen is especially delicious; people of the time were so fond of it that they could not leave the frontier." |
| 62 | 蕨： Fern: |
| 63 | 《尔雅》云：「蕨，鳖。」郭璞注云：「初生无叶，可食。《广雅》曰『紫藄』，非也。」《诗义疏》曰：「蕨，山菜也；初生似蒜茎，紫黑色。二月中，高八九寸，老有叶，瀹为茹，滑美如葵。今陇西、天水人，及此时而乾收，秋冬尝之；又云以进御。三月中，其端散为三枝，枝有数叶，叶似青蒿，长粗坚强，不可食。周、秦曰『蕨』；齐、鲁曰『鳖』，亦谓『蕨』。」 又浇之。 The Erya says: "Fern, biě." Guo Pu's commentary says: "When it first sprouts, it has no leaves and is edible. The Guangya calls it 'Zi qi,' which is incorrect." The Shi Yi Shu says: "Fern is a mountain vegetable; when it first sprouts, its stem resembles garlic and has a purplish-black color. In the second month, they grow eight or nine cun tall; when mature with leaves, boiled as a vegetable dish, it is smooth and delicious like kui (a type of chard). Nowadays people from Longxi and Tianshui, at this time, dry it for storage to be tasted in autumn and winter; it is also said that it was presented as tribute. In the third month, its tip splits into three branches; each branch has several leaves resembling blue wormwood (qinghao), long and coarse in texture, no longer edible. The Zhou and Qin dynasties called it "jue"; the Qi and Lu regions called it "bie," also known as "jue." Water it again. |
| 64 | 《食经》曰藏蕨法： The Shi Jing says: method for preserving ferns: |
| 65 | 先洗蕨，把著器中，蕨一行，盐一行，薄粥沃之。一法：以薄灰淹之，一宿，出，蟹眼汤瀹之。出熇，内糟中。可至蕨时。 First wash the fern, place it in a vessel; one layer of fern, then one layer of salt, and pour thin porridge over them. Another method: soak it in a thin ash solution for one night; take it out and blanch it in crab-eye boiling water. After cooling, place it into the rice bran. It can be preserved until fern season. |
| 66 | 蕨𦵔： Preserved Fern: |
| 67 | 取蕨，暂经汤出；小蒜亦然。令细切，与盐、酢。」又云：「蒜、蕨俱寸切之。 Take the fern and briefly blanch it in hot water; small garlic is treated similarly. Cut them into fine pieces, then mix with salt and vinegar." It is also said: "Chop both garlic and fern into one-cun slices. |
| 68 | 荇：字或作莕。 Xing: The character may also be written as Xian.}} |
| 69 | 《尔雅》曰：「莕，接余。其叶，苻。」郭璞注曰：「丛生水中，叶圆，在茎端，长短随水深浅。江东𦵔食之。」 藟 The Erya says: "Xian, jieyu." Its leaves are fu." Guo Pu's annotation says: "It grows in clusters in water, with round leaves at the end of its stems; their length varies according to the depth of the water. People in Jiangdong preserve and eat it." |
| 70 | 《毛诗·周南·国风》曰：「参差荇菜，左右流之。」毛注云：「接余也。」 The Mao Shi · Zhou Nan · Guofeng says: "Uneven xing vegetables, flowing to the left and right." Mao's annotation says: "It is jieyu." |
| 71 | 《诗义疏》曰：「接余，其茎白；叶紫赤，正圆，径寸馀，浮在水上；根在水底。茎与水深浅等，大如钗股，上青下白，以苦酒浸之为𦵔，脆美，可案酒。其华为蒲黄色。」 The Shi Yi Shu says: "Jieyu has white stems; its leaves are purplish-red, perfectly round, over one cun in diameter, floating on the water surface; its roots grow at the bottom of the water. Its stems are as long as the depth of the water, thick like a hairpin shaft, green on top and white below. Soak it in vinegar to preserve it; it becomes crisp and delicious, suitable for serving with wine. Its flowers are the color of pu huang (a yellowish pollen)." |
《饧餔第八十九 Tang Bu Di Baishiu》 | |
| 1 | 史游《急就篇》：「饊生但反、饴、饧。」 《楚辞》曰：「粔籹、蜜饵，有餦餭。」餦餭亦饧也。 柳下惠见饴曰：「可以养老。」然则饴餔可以养老自幼，故录之也。 Shi You's Ji Jiu Pian: "Nan (nán, pronounced 'sheng dan fan'), yi, tang." The Chu Ci says: "Ju nü, mi er, you fang huang." Fang huang is also tang. Liu Xiaohui, upon seeing yi, said: "It can be used to nourish the elderly." Therefore, yi bu is suitable for nourishing both the young and the old; hence it is recorded here. |
| 2 | 煮白饧法： Method for Boiling White Tang: |
| 3 | 用白芽散糱佳；其成饼者，则不中用。用不渝釜，渝则饧黑。釜必磨治令白净，勿使有腻气。釜上加甑，以防沸溢。乾糱末五升，杀米一石。 米必细𦥥，数十遍净淘，炊为饭。摊去热气，及暖于盆中以糱末和之，使均调。卧于酳瓮中，勿以手按，拨平而已。以被覆盆瓮，令暖，冬则穰茹。冬须竟日，夏即半日许，看米消减离瓮，作鱼眼沸汤以淋之，令糟上水深一尺许，乃上下水洽讫，向一食顷，使拔酳取汁煮之。 每沸，辄益两杓。尤宜缓火，火急则焦气。盆中汁尽，量不复溢，便下甑。一人专以杓扬之，勿令住手，手住则饧黑。量熟，止火。良久，向冷，然后出之。 用粱米、稷米者，饧如水精色。 Use white sprout malt; the compressed malt bricks are not suitable. Use a non-reactive pot, as reactive ones will turn the tang black. The pot must be ground and cleaned until white and clean; do not let it have any greasy smell. Place a steamer on top of the pot to prevent boiling over. Five sheng of dried malt powder is used for every dan (100 catties) of rice. The rice must be finely ground, washed dozens of times until clean, and steamed into rice. Spread it out to release the heat, then mix in the malt powder while still warm in a basin until evenly blended. Place it into a fermentation jar; do not press down with your hands, just level it out. Cover the basin and jar with a blanket to keep warm; in winter, use straw or cloth for insulation. In winter, it must ferment for a full day; in summer, about half a day. When the rice has reduced and separated from the jar, pour fish-eye boiling water over it to rinse. Let the liquid on top of the mash reach about one chi deep before thoroughly mixing up and down. After about one meal time (approximately an hour), draw off the fermented liquid and cook it. Each time it boils, add two shao of water. It is especially suitable for a gentle fire; if the heat is too strong, it will develop a burnt flavor. When all the liquid in the basin has been used and no more overflows, place it into the steamer. Have one person continuously stir with a ladle; do not stop stirring, as stopping will cause the tang to turn black. When it is fully cooked, extinguish the fire. Wait for a long time until it cools down before taking it out. If using millet or broomcorn millet, the tang will be crystal-clear in color. |
| 4 | 黑饧法： Method for Black Tang: |
| 5 | 用青芽成饼糱。糱末一斗，杀米一石。馀法同前。 Use green sprout compressed malt bricks. One dou of malt powder is used for one dan (100 catty) of rice. The rest of the method is the same as before. |
| 6 | 琥珀饧法： Method for Amber Tang: |
| 7 | 小饼如碁石，内外明彻，色如琥珀。用大麦糱末一斗，杀米一石。馀并同前法。 Small bricks like go stones, clear inside and out, with a color resembling amber. Use ten sheng of barley malt powder for one dan (10 catties) of grain. The rest is the same as the previous method. |
| 8 | 煮餔法： Method for Boiling Tang Bu: |
| 9 | 用黑饧糱末一斗六升，杀米一石。卧、煮如法。但以蓬子押取汁，以匕匙纥纥搅之，不须扬。 Use ten sheng and six sheng of black tang malt powder to process one dan (100 jin) of rice. Soak, boil as per the method. But press out the juice using fengzi (a type of plant), stir with a ladle and a spatula, no need to stir vigorously. |
| 10 | 《食经》作饴法： The "Shijing" Method for Making Tang: |
| 11 | 「取黍米一石，炊作黍，著盆中。糱末一斗搅和。一宿，则得一斛五斗。煎成饴。」 lodash Take one dan of broomcorn millet, cook it as porridge and put it into a basin. Mix in ten sheng of malt powder. After one night, it will yield fifteen sheng. Boil into tang." |
| 12 | 崔寔曰：「十月，先冰冻，作京饧，煮暴饴。」 Cui Shi said: "In the tenth month, before the ice freezes, make Jing Tang and boil strong tang." |
| 13 | 《食次》曰： The "Shicì" says: |
| 14 | 「白茧糖法：熟炊秫稻米饭，及热于杵臼净者舂之为𥻓，须令极熟，勿令有米粒。干为饼：法，厚二分许。日曝小燥，刀𠠫为长条，广二分；乃斜裁之，大如枣核，两头尖。更曝令极燥，膏油煮之。熟，出，糖聚丸之；一丸不过五六枚。」又云：「手索𥻓，粗细如箭簳。日曝小燥，刀斜截，大如枣核。煮，丸，如上法。丸大如桃核。半奠，不满之。」 "The Method for White Cocoon Sugar: Cook yellow millet and rice porridge thoroughly, while still hot, pound it in a clean mortar and pestle to make paste. It must be extremely smooth, without any grain particles remaining." Dry into cakes: the method specifies they should be about two fen thick. Dry in the sun until slightly dry, cut into long strips two fen wide; then diagonally slice them into pieces as large as jujube kernels, pointed at both ends. Dry further until extremely dry, and cook with lard oil. Once cooked, remove it and form the sugar into pills; one pill should not contain more than five or six pieces." It also says: "By hand, knead the paste until it is as thick and thin as an arrow shaft. Dry in the sun slightly, then cut diagonally with a knife into pieces about the size of jujube kernels." Boil and form into pills as per the method above. The pills should be about the size of peach kernels. Half a dan, not full."" |
| 15 | 黄茧糖： Yellow Cocoon Sugar: |
| 16 | 白秫米，精舂，不簸淅，以栀子渍米取色。炊、舂为𥻓；𥻓加蜜。馀一如白𥻓。作茧，煮，及奠，如前。 White yellow millet, finely pounded, not winnowed or rinsed; dye the rice with gardenia to extract color. Cook and pound into paste; add honey to the paste. The rest is exactly like white paste. Make the cocoon, cook, and pour as before. |
《煮胶第九十 Method for Boiling Glue: Ninetieth 》 | |
| 1 | 煮胶法： Method for Boiling Glue: |
| 2 | 煮胶要用二月、三月、九月、十月，馀月则不成。热则不凝，无作饼。寒则冻瘃，令胶不黏。 沙牛皮、水牛皮、猪皮为上，驴、马、驼、骡皮为次。其胶势力，虽复相似，但驴、马皮薄毛多，胶少，倍费樵薪。破皮履、鞋底、格椎皮、靴底、破鞍、靫，但是生皮，无问年岁久远，不腐烂者，悉皆中煮。然新皮胶色明净而胜，其陈久者固宜，不如新者。其脂肕、盐熟之皮，则不中用。譬如生铁，一经柔熟，永无熔铸之理，无烂汁故也。唯欲旧釜大而不渝者。釜新则烧令皮著底，釜小费薪火，釜渝令胶色黑。 法：于井边坑中，浸皮四五日，令极液。以水净洗濯，无令有泥。片割，著釜中，不须削毛。削毛费功，于胶无益。凡水皆得煮；然咸苦之水，胶乃更胜。长作木匕，匕头施铁刃，时时彻底搅之，勿令著底。匕头不施铁刃，虽搅不彻底，不彻底则焦，焦则胶恶，是以尤须数数搅之。水少更添，常使滂沛。经宿晬时，勿令绝火。候皮烂熟，以匕沥汁，看末后一珠，微有黏势，胶便熟矣。为过伤火，令胶焦。取净乾盆，置竈埵丁果反上，以漉米床加盆，布蓬草于床上，以大杓挹取胶汁，泻著蓬草上，滤去滓秽。挹时勿停火。火停沸定，则皮膏汁下，挹不得也。淳熟汁尽，更添水煮之；搅如初法。熟复挹取。看皮垂尽，著釜焦黑，无复黏势，乃弃去之。 胶盆向满，舁著空静处屋中，仰头令凝。盖则气变成水，令胶解离。凌旦，合盆于席上，脱取凝胶。口湿细紧线以割之。其近盆底土恶之处，不中用者，割却少许。然后十字坼破之，又中断为段，较薄割为饼。唯极薄为佳，非直易乾，又色似琥珀者好。坚厚者既难燥，又见黯黑，皆为胶恶也。近盆末下，名为「笨胶」，可以建车。近盆末上，即是「胶清」，可以杂用。最上胶皮如粥膜者，胶中之上，第一黏好。 先于庭中竖槌，施三重箔樀，令免狗鼠，于最下箔上，布置胶饼，其上两重，为作荫凉，并捍霜露。胶饼虽凝，水汁未尽，见日即消；霜露沾濡，复难乾燥。旦起至食时，卷去上箔，令胶见日；凌旦气寒，不畏消释；霜露之润，见日即乾。食后还复舒箔为荫。雨则内敞屋之下，则不须重箔。四五日浥浥时，绳穿胶饼，悬而日曝。 极乾，乃内屋内，悬纸笼之。以防青蝇尘土之污。夏中虽软相著，至八月秋凉时，日中曝之，还复坚好。 Boiling glue should be done in the second, third, ninth, and tenth months; it will not succeed in other months. If too hot, it will not set and cannot form into cakes. If too cold, it will freeze and cause chilblains, making the glue non-sticky. Sandy cowhide, water buffalo hide, and pigskin are best; donkey, horse, camel, and mule hides are of lower quality. Although their glue strength is similar, donkey and horse hides have thin hair and are less productive, requiring double the firewood. Old leather soles, shoe soles, thick hide from tools, boot soles, broken saddles, and quivers—any rawhide, regardless of age or how long it has been kept, as long as it is not rotten, can all be used for boiling glue. However, new hides produce glue that is clearer and superior in quality; although old ones are still usable, they are not as good as the new. Hides treated with fat or salted are unsuitable for use. It is like raw iron; once it has been softened and processed, it can never be melted or cast again, because there are no liquid residues. Only an old, large cauldron that does not corrode should be used. New pots cause the hide to stick to the bottom; small pots consume more firewood, and corroded pots make the glue dark in color. Method: Soak the hides in a pit by the well for four to five days until they are thoroughly softened. Wash them clean with water, making sure there is no dirt remaining. Cut into pieces and place in the cauldron; it is unnecessary to remove the hair. Removing the hair takes extra effort, but it does not benefit the glue. Any water can be used for boiling; however, brackish or bitter water produces even better glue. Make a long wooden ladle with an iron blade on the head, and stir thoroughly from time to time to prevent it from sticking to the bottom. If the ladle head is not fitted with an iron blade, even stirring will not be thorough; if it is not stirred thoroughly, it will burn and spoil the glue. Therefore, it must be stirred frequently. If there is too little water, add more; always keep the liquid abundant. Maintain a continuous fire for one night and several hours without interruption. When the hide is thoroughly softened, use a ladle to drain the liquid and observe the last drop; if it shows slight stickiness, the glue is ready. Excessive heat will scorch the glue. Take a clean, dry basin and place it on the stove base. Put a rice strainer over the basin, lay pengan grass (a type of reed) on the strainer, use a large ladle to pour the glue liquid onto the pengan grass, filtering out impurities and dross. Do not stop the fire while pouring. If the fire stops and the liquid cools, the hide fat will settle to the bottom, making it impossible to pour out. When the clear thick juice is exhausted, add more water and continue boiling; stir as per the initial method. Once cooked again, pour it out. When the hide is nearly all dissolved and the residue in the pot turns black and no longer sticky, discard it. Once the glue basin is almost full, carry it to a quiet indoor location, place it upright so that it can solidify. If covered, the vapor will condense into water and cause the glue to separate. At dawn, place the basin on a mat and remove the solidified glue. Cut it with a wet thread tightly held in your mouth. The part near the bottom of the basin that is contaminated or inferior should be cut away slightly. Then split it into four parts, cut each piece in half again, and slice the thinner portions into cakes. Only extremely thin slices are best—not only do they dry easily, but those with a color resembling amber are of high quality. Thick and hard pieces not only take longer to dry but also turn dark black, both signs of poor glue quality. The portion near the bottom of the pot is called "ben jiao," which can be used to build carts. The part near the top of the residue, known as "jiao qing," may be used for miscellaneous purposes. The best glue is like a film on porridge; it is the top quality and most adhesive. First, set up a pole in the courtyard and install three layers of screens to keep out dogs and rats. Place the glue cakes on the lowest screen; the two upper layers provide shade and protection from dew and frost. Although the glue cakes have solidified, if they still contain moisture, exposure to sunlight will cause them to melt; dew and frost can also hinder their drying. From dawn until mealtime, remove the top screens to allow the glue to be exposed to sunlight; at dawn when it is still cold, there is no fear of melting; any moisture from dew or frost will dry quickly in the sun. After meals, put the screens back to provide shade. In rainy weather, place them under a sheltered roof; there is no need for multiple layers of screens. After four or five days when the glue cakes are slightly damp, thread them with a rope and hang them in the sun to dry. Once completely dry, place them indoors and suspend them inside paper cages. This prevents contamination from green flies and dust. In midsummer, even if they become soft and stick together, by the cool autumn in August, expose them to sunlight at noon and they will harden again. |
《笔墨第九十一 Brushes and Ink: Ninety-first 》 | |
| 1 | 笔法： Method for Making Brushes: |
| 2 | 韦仲将《笔方》曰：「先次以铁梳梳兔毫及羊青毛，去其秽毛，盖使不髯。茹讫，各别之。皆用梳掌痛拍整齐毫锋端，本各作扁，极令均调平好，用衣羊青毛——缩羊青毛去兔毫头下二分许。然后合扁，卷令极圆。讫，痛颉之。」 「以所整羊毛中截，用衣中心——名曰『笔柱』，或曰『墨池』、『承墨』。复用毫青衣羊青毛外，如作柱法，使中心齐，亦使平均。痛颉，内管中，宁随毛长者使深。宁小不大。笔之大要也。」 Wei Zhongjiang's "Bi Fang" says: "First, use an iron comb to brush rabbit hair and young sheep wool, removing the coarse hairs so that they do not become bristly. After brushing, sort them separately." Use the palm of the comb to firmly press and align the tips of the hairs, flattening them at the base so they are even and well-proportioned. Use young sheep wool—trim about two fen from the tip of the rabbit hair. Then combine the flattened hairs, roll them tightly into a perfect circle. Once done, press and adjust firmly."" "Cut the middle section of the prepared wool to form the core—called 'Bi Zhu,' or also known as 'Mo Chi' or 'Cheng Mo.' Then, using rabbit hair and young sheep wool on the outside, follow the same method for making a column to ensure the center is aligned and evenly balanced. Press firmly and insert into the tube; it should be deep enough, following the length of the hair. Better small than large. This is the key to making a good brush."" |
| 3 | 合墨法： Method for Making Ink: |
| 4 | 好醇烟，擣讫，以细绢筛——于堈内筛去草莽若细沙、尘埃。此物至轻微，不宜露筛，喜失飞去，不可不慎。墨一斤，以好胶五两，浸梣才心反皮汁中。梣，江南樊鸡木皮也；其皮入水绿色，解胶，又益墨色。可下鸡子白——去黄——五颗。亦以真珠砂一两，麝香一两，别治，细筛，都合调。下铁臼中，宁刚不宜泽，擣三万杵，杵多益善。合墨不得过二月、九月，温时败臭，寒则难乾潼溶，见风自解碎。重不得过三二两。墨之大诀如此。宁小不大。 Take high-quality, pure lampblack, pound it thoroughly, and sift it through fine silk cloth—sift out weeds, fine sand, or dust in the mortar. This substance is extremely light; sifting it outdoors should be avoided as it tends to scatter and fly away, so one must be cautious. For every catty of ink material, use five taels of good glue soaked in the juice from elm (canxin fan) bark. Elm, also known as Fanji wood bark in southern Jiangnan; its bark turns the water green when immersed, dissolves glue, and enhances the ink's color. Add egg whites—without the yolk—from five eggs. Also add one tael of genuine cinnabar and one tael of musk, separately processed, sifted finely, then thoroughly mixed. Place it into an iron mortar; the mortar should be hard rather than smooth. Pound for thirty thousand times—the more pounding, the better. Ink should not be made in February or September; when it is warm, the mixture will rot and smell bad, while in cold weather it becomes difficult to dry and dissolve evenly, and may disintegrate on its own when exposed to wind. The weight should not exceed two or three taels. This is the essential secret to making ink. Better small than large. |
URN: ctp:ws335087
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