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礼二十二

2
周制,追师掌王后之首服,为副、编、次,追衡、笄,为九嫔及外内命妇之首服,以待祭祀、宾客。追师,掌冠冕之官,故并主王后之首服。郑玄谓:「副之言覆,所以覆首为之饰,其遗象若今步摇矣,服之以从王祭祀。编,编列发为之,其遗象若今假紒矣,服之以桑也。次,次第发长短为之,所谓髲也,服之以见王。王后之燕居,亦纚笄总而已。追犹治也,诗云『追琢其璋』。王后之衡笄,皆以玉为之,惟祭服有衡,垂于副之两旁,当耳,其下以紞悬瑱。诗云『玼兮玼兮,其之翟也。鬒发如云,不屑也。玉之瑱也』是也。笄,卷发者。外内命妇衣鞠衣袒衣者服编,衣褖衣者服次。」追音堆。,徒计反。髲,皮寄反。袒,知善反。褖音彖。
2
周制,内司服掌王后之六服:褘衣,揄翟,阙翟,鞠衣,展衣,褖衣。素沙。王后之服,刻缯为之形而采画之,缀于衣以为文章。褘衣,画翬者。揄翬,画摇者。阙翟,刻而不画。此三者皆祭服。从王祭先王则服褘衣,祭先公则服揄翟,祭群小祀则服阙翟。今世有圭衣者,盖三翟之遗俗。鞠衣,黄桑服也,色如麴尘,象桑叶始生。月令:「三月,荐鞠衣于先帝」,告桑事。展当为袒。袒衣,以礼见王及宾客之服,其色白。褖衣,御于王之服,亦以燕居,其色黑。六服备于此矣。以下推次其色,则阙翟赤,揄翟青,褘衣玄。此郑玄据五行相生为说也。妇人尚一,德无所兼,连衣裳不异其色。素沙者,今之白縳也。六服皆袍制,以白縳为里,使之张显。今世有沙縠者,名出于此。其翟多少,各依命数。揄音摇。縳音绢。辨内外命妇之服:鞠衣,展衣,褖衣。素沙。内命妇之服:鞠衣,九嫔也;展衣,世妇也;褖衣,女御也。外命妇者,其夫孤也,则服鞠衣;其夫卿大夫也,则服展衣;其夫士也,则服褖衣。三夫人及公之妻,其阙翟以下乎?侯伯之夫人揄翟,子男之夫人亦阙翟,唯二王后褘衣也。

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